What's Good: Thai, Doughnuts and a Rooftop View 

Willow Creek Thai in Eureka

Willow Creek has long drawn campers, hikers, rafters and Bigfoot hunters. And if, when you pull off the cartoonishly winding, cliff-hugging State Route 299, you can unlock your hand from the grab bar, you can enjoy a view of majestic trees and the sunlight bouncing from a glossy chicken wing on the patio of (40640 State Route 299). And now that its owner Kim Pravong has opened K&B Dining, an offshoot of the "Thai fusion" restaurant in Eureka, the view at 621 Fifth St. is similarly improved.

Back to those wings, specifically the Spicy Honey Wings ($15), which retain their juiciness under a sticky, sweet glaze flecked with dried red chili flake. While muted, tepid versions populate chain menus, these have the flavorful kick of an auntie knocking an Applebee's menu from your hands. And yes, like the rest of the menu, they are available at both the Willow Creek and Eureka restaurants.

Happily, the same is true of the stir-fried eggplant with Thai basil ($18). The smoky, silky slices of fried eggplant and ground pork play against the sweet red and green pepper, and fragrant Thai basil. Pravong says she's yielded to requests for favorites not yet printed on the menu, like larb and papaya salad. The wide rice noodles of the pad see ew carry the char kiss of wok hei, balancing the mild sweetness of the soy-based sauce that clings to broccoli, fried egg and fried tofu ($17).

Pravong says she and her husband, Bill (the B in K&B), are still getting used to the new locale. "Willow Creek is a small community and everybody knows everybody. Over here, it's a bigger space," she says. Though one suspects they'll get to know regulars soon enough.

Hole Foods

Steve and Rebecca Bands have made good on their vow to expand the doughnut menu since taking over Frankie's NY Bagels (3750 Harris St., Eureka) in 2022. The rotating lineup shows up doused in an array of glazes to tempt anyone — that most of the springy treats are vegan is somewhat miraculous. Lime, tamarind and hibiscus sprinkled, anyone? (Tragically, we have yet to make it in time for the crunch-topped créme brûlée before it's sold out. And yet options for sweet, fried solace remain within reach.)

But don't overlook the boxes of doughnut holes in the case, brimming with browned nuggets tossed in crunchy sugar or cinnamon sugar ($3.50). Wait, $3.50 for a small mountain of wholesome joy? In this economy? Firmer than the standard glazed item at a doughnut shop, these skew chewier, reminiscent of Italian street fair zeppoli. Charmingly disregarding uniformity, they are tender inside when fresh from the fryer. Should they cool, don't despair — a few seconds in a microwave will revive them to near their original glory. The glorious smell in your kitchen comes at no additional charge. 

Look up for Rooftop Sushi

Those of us craning our necks in Old Town can satisfy our curiosity at last. The frankly named Rooftop Sushi is out in the daylight at last (148 E St., Eureka). Slip into the modest entrance on the E Street side of the new building and ride the elevator (a Eureka rarity) to the fourth floor, where the soft opening is in full swing. 

Opened amid a welcome streak of sunshine, chef Joe Tan says the first couple of days have been busy. While the indoor dining space and counter were empty off hours, every seat on the patio was taken with diners enjoying nigiri, maki sushi and plates of spiraling beef carpaccio. And sunshine — lots of sunshine. The view of the bay is reserved for the event space on the other side of the rooftop, but the restaurant's half of the partially covered wood deck overlooks Old Town and environs. 

Tan has said he was looking forward to turning his sole attention to the venture, a smaller restaurant, now that he's moved on from Curry Leaf and Nori, both of which have a new owner in Nina Zhao, while Overtime Pizza is up for sale. Fans of Nori will recognize some of the style and standards on the Rooftop Sushi menu. Along with the sushi, Tan is offering miso and shoyu ramen, as well as yakitori skewers. Specials, he says, will come as the crew and cook Norberto Andon, in the back turning out turning out katsu and tempura, settle in. 

Jennifer Fumiko Cahill (she/her) is the arts and features editor at the Journal. Reach her at (707) 442-1400, extension 320, or [email protected]. Follow her on Instagram @JFumikoCahill.