What's Good? Burgers, Malasadas and Shawarma 

On the Jamwagon Bandwagon

You can't miss the bright blue Jamwagon food truck with its red lettering announcing pitas, gyros, hummus, falafel and fries (1631 Central Ave., McKinleyville; updates on Facebook). And good thing, too. (Sidebar: Is McKinleyville's Central Avenue, with its Indian takeover days at the Taqueria Martinez truck, Auntie Hao's and now this Greek street-food operation, becoming the spot to cruise food trucks with big flavors?)

Instead of the usual heavy toppings, the Jamwagon's loaded fries take a refreshing turn for the Mediterranean ($6, plus $1.50 for chicken/$3.50 lamb). Doused in creamy, garlicky tzatziki sauce, its mild tartness coupling with chunks of feta cheese, they come topped with chopped tomato and slices of charred peppers, the light bitterness of which you may find yourself hunting for at the bottom of the container.

Lamb shawarma comes well spiced with cumin among others, but not masking the wonderfully juicy lamb tucked in a soft, thick Greek pita warm from the grill ($11.99). The tang of tzatziki lightens the heavy flavors along with feta, raw onion, tomato and cucumber. (This is a good time to remind you of the importance of car linens, the cloth napkin/towel/small tarp you should have tucked in your glove box to lay over your lap on just such occasions.)

The falafel promised on the side of the truck delivers, especially for $6. (Great value when you consider it's been a tried-and-true favorite since pyramids were the architectural stye of the day.) Inside the pita, satisfyingly crunchy chickpea and parsley pucks fried dark break open bright green and herbaceous. The thick swipe of smoky garlic tahini adds richness and the squeeze of lemon, along with the cucumbers, lettuce and tomato, balance things out.

You'd better get on those car linens.

A Burger Break in the Rain

In Humboldt spring, if the patio is dry, much less sunny, take advantage. Not all the benches were dry at Eureka's branch of Redwood Curtain Brewery (1595 Myrtle Ave.) when the rain let up at last, but enough for a burger and fries framed in a patch of sun in front of the attached Cookin' Nook truck. 

The Myrtle Burger with Cheese is a top seller at the craft beer spot for good reason ($15). The two pinky-thick ground wagyu patties grilled with salt and pepper on a flat-top come draped in melted cheddar and stacked atop planks of dill pickle, tomato, lettuce and red onion. It's a generous, classic burger without fuss. (Fancy though the Japanese cattle breed may sound, it's not the pampered and massaged variety, and the flavor is decidedly American beef.) An added half-order of firm and starchy hand-cut, skin-on fries will run you $3, with the bonus of hunting the bottom of the pile for the bits that verge on thick potato chips. 

Another opportunity to seize comes in the form of warm malasadas ($5), Portuguese yeast doughnuts that Henry Palomares, who manages the truck, says were a menu must-have for brewery owner Amanda Mollberg. This iteration is bready and springy, and thoroughly rolled in crunchy table sugar that provides the sweetness. Order the Bavarian and a dollop of vanilla custard is not piped, but spooned into the cut sides of the pair of malasadas. Palomares says the monthly special coming up will be served with strawberries. Get them while you can.

Share your tips about What's Good with Jennifer Fumiko Cahill (she/her), arts and features editor at the Journal. Reach her at 442-1400, extension 320, or [email protected].