All summer, which includes October here, tables at Rooftop (148 E St., Eureka) were packed with those starved for vitamin D and hungry for sushi. But during the damp cold of winter, the indoor tables and counter (at last, comfy bar chairs) offer a view out of the chill and hot, hot ramen. 

Spicy Miso Ramen with a view at Rooftop. Credit: Photo by Jennifer Fumiko Cahill

The Spicy Miso Ramen ($18) is a cold weather winner. A miso broth with surprising body, considering its vegetarian base, draws its orange-red hue and heat from doses of Korean gochujang and la-yu sesame chili oil. The accompanying ajitsuke tamago has a moist, jammy but still solid yolk and a salty-sweet exterior, to which the firm, charred spirals of roasted chashu pork offer a smoky balance. For its heat and flavor, the soup is fairly light and a match for the glossy, medium-weight fresh noodles. (Listen, Team Tonkotsu, I also love a thick, fatty broth but we can’t always nap right after a meal.) Lean into the steam for the simultaneous belly warming and spa treatment. 

Jennifer Fumiko Cahill is the managing editor of the North Coast Journal. She won the Association of...

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