A sandwich worth defending. Credit: Jennifer Fumiko Cahill

It’s hard to look classy whilst cramming a big, grilled, cheesy, pastrami-packed Reuben into your mouth. And there are days when you want the taste of the sandwich, but maybe not the heart flutters afterward. Your solution is at Nourish Bistro & Catering (518 Henderson St., Eureka). Order up a Reuben at the counter and try not to be distressed when you are asked about your choice of bread, cheese and dressing ($8.50). Apparently there are those who want to tweak the classic, and that’s their lifestyle choice. But maybe we need to address some actual issues and draft a Defense of Reubens Act that defines this American institution as a hot sandwich on rye bread with pastrami, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and thousand island dressing. Do what you will in your own home, but you can’t call it a Reuben without hurting all Reubens.

Ahem. Nourish’s version, cut into sharp wedges, is downright minimalist. This is not the daunting monolith you faced on your visit to New York — the tower of meat teetering to one side, a flimsy slice of bread stranded at the top like Faye Wray. Instead, it’s toasty, swirly rye bread with a reasonable handful of satisfyingly salty Premier pastrami, sauerkraut and a swipe of thousand island. Piping hot so you can taste the fat of the meat, which is cut just enough with the tart kraut, it is a taste of the real thing that you can eat with dignity in your distressed, white shabby chic chair.

Jennifer Fumiko Cahill is the managing editor of the North Coast Journal. She won the Association of...

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2 Comments

  1. I just love your articles. Make’s my mouth water every time. Tried to go to the Mexican restaurant last week and really want to bite this sandwich. Thank you,
    Bill

  2. When Go-Go Bistro occupied this space they served a similar sandwich. The name of that sandwich as listed on the menu was “Reubenesque”. The version served by Nourish is almost as good.

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