Posted inEat + Drink

Under the Table

A year ago, the Especiales Meals and Catering Facebook page was flush with photos of stacked tamales and rows of enchiladas in foil trays. Co-owner Sherrie Bazan was taking business classes at College of the Redwoods, securing a business license and hunting around for a food truck and a commercial kitchen. And in the meantime, […]

Posted inEat + Drink

Night Shift

Since November, when the crew at Chuchi’s Old Town Eats takes off their aprons and heads out at 5 p.m., Seth Pate has been starting his shift. He’s been running New Americana, a separate nighttime delivery restaurant, out of the kitchen where once he cooked for the former Masaki’s Kyoto Restaurant, prepping and cooking its […]

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Cabbage for Comfort

Varieties of the species Brassica oleracea are exuberant plants — it’s a pity we don’t often see them in their glory. Broccoli, the various cultivars of cabbage and cauliflower all produce abundant leaves crowning the head. They sort of show off, profuse in their physical presence. Brassicas are generous and it seems to me fitting […]

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Crab Cioppino

My mom’s recipe for crab cioppino became well known at the Ivanhoe in Ferndale when my dad owned it in the late 1940s. They were raising my two older sisters before the rest of us were born. Maybe my mom was raising them, as my dad was a bar owner. Her recipe was locally famous […]

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Small and Scrappy

On Thursday afternoon, after a morning spent prepping and cooking, Patricia Cambianica is writing the week’s menu out on the chalkboard. In the past, diners at Arcata’s La Trattoria would crane their necks from their tables to choose but these days a snapshot of the offerings — shitake risotto, chicken and polenta, chocolate cake with […]

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The Missing Mustard

Earlier last year, the toilet paper shortage made headlines across the country but another shortage became a pressing but silent issue across Humboldt County: the Larrupin Dill Sauce shortage. Confusion over who makes it, combined with the pandemic, historic California wildfires, food shortages, lockdowns, power shutoffs and other anomalies the last few years have thrown […]

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Jinx Cake

We’re a superstitious newsroom at the Journal. We knock wood in unison at the mention of any good news. Because digital editor Kimberly Wear once went through a massive electrical blackout at the Times-Standard years ago after uttering the phrase, “Hold down the …” — you know what, we just don’t say it and I’m […]

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