Esteban Gonzalez, an Arcata restaurant owner beloved by many, known in equal parts for his tireless work ethic, his good food and willingness to offer a hand up to anyone who needed it, died Jan. 12 of pneumonia. He was 55. Amid an outpouring of support in the wake of his death, Gonzalez is being […]
Mexican food
Posted inSpecial Sections
Flavor Palette
Start with a heart of Romaine, curled up on the plate like a crisp green flavor envelope waiting to be filled. Add tangy corn pico de gallo. That’s the foundation for the main event — chicken in a dark, glossy mole simmered up from a generations-old family recipe. Top with thinly sliced, perfectly ripe avocado. […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Potent Potions
The heady pleasure of sipping a well-executed artisan cocktail cannot be overstated. Even perusing The Griffin’s drink list chock-full of herbal simple syrups and local craft liquors and essential oils is enough to lift your spirits. Locals will recognize the friendly faces of owners Cordelia Ray and Vanessa Griffin crafting drinks behind the bar. Both […]
Posted inEat + Drink
Taco Trucks on Every Corner
Can we get back to that campaign promise/threat? It sounds fantastic. It beats a “chicken in every pot,” which leaves you to come up with side dishes. No, life with tacos always in honking distance sounds far better. El Pueblo Market (3600 Broadway, Eureka) has recently extended its empire of pan dulce and chicharones, rolling […]
Posted inEat + Drink
San Diego Homesick Blues
Now and then, you may see a faraway look in the eyes of those of us without Frumboldt stickers on our cars, who hail from elsewhere but were lured here by Humboldt’s verdant charms (or perhaps the charms of a Humboldter). We long for the food of our homelands. You may wave a hand in […]
Posted inEat + Drink
Good Decisions
Tucked back from the street, its fence camouflaged with peeling fliers, La Chiquita (1021 I St., Arcata), brick-and-mortar counterpart to the taco truck of the same name, is easily missed on the walk past Los Bagels and Wildwood Music. Luckily, there is the smell of steamy tortillas and carnitas to turn your head. A news […]
Posted inEat + Drink
We Blew it up at El Pueblo
With the start of Dia de los Muertos starts this weekend, folks are picking up pan de muerto (dead bread) to pile onto altars among photos, sugar skulls and candles for their lost loved ones. Don’t risk losing control of your sweet tooth and swiping a bun from the dearly departed. Get your own. El […]
Posted inEat + Drink
Arcata’s Best Chile Relleno, Determined
Okay, lovers of Mexican food, we heard you. You said last week’s entry into the Arcata bracket, the eggy, crepe-y delish dish from Fiesta Grill and Cantina, was inadequate competition against the traditional battered and fried version from Carmela’s. So we returned to that foggy college town and made the rounds again, this time including the […]
Posted inEat + Drink
Chile vs. Chile: Fortuna Strong
The Fortuna contingent brought it hard this week, forcing us to revise our standards. Two different restaurants produced three very different rellenos, with a spectrum of chiles, sauces and batters. All were delicious, and as such we’ve decided to be more inclusive. There is no black and white when it comes to pepper, cheese, batter […]
Posted inEat + Drink
Chile vs. Chile: The Fast Food Edition
Expectation is a double-edged sword when it comes to experience: it can both elevate the mundane and intensify the disappointing. Never was this more was this true than with Los Gallos Taqueria at the Bayshore Mall. In case you think we’ve rigged this race, Los Gallos has been a dark horse favorite in the world […]
Posted inEat + Drink
Chile vs. Chile: Eureka
Our epic quest to find Humboldt County’s best chile relleno got underway this week, with gustatory explorations on Tuesday and Thursday. Our criteria for a good relleno? Stem in, naturally. Poblano pepper or nada. Good ratio of batter to cheese to pepper, with no one aspect reigning supreme. And whatever the Spanish version of je […]
Posted inEat + Drink
Poppin’
A reader emailed a hot tip that sent us to Pachanga (1802 Fifth St., Eureka) for jalapeño poppers ($9.50). Aren’t they all kind of the same? Push away all those unhappy memories of TGI Friday’s and its frozen and fried heartburn bullets. Pachanga’s arrive four-to-a-plate and looking like stunted corn dogs. The thick cornmeal batter […]