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Fancy Toast and Bacon

Depending on the day you’ve had, a cocktail may or may not cover it — even if it comes with “intention,” like those on the bar menu full of essential oil-spiked concoctions at the Griffin (937 10th St., Arcata). Might they be where the room’s pleasantly herbal fragrance is coming from? In any case, despite the […]

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Boardroom Decisions

Somewhere in Los Angeles, a restaurant owner is poring over reclaimed barn wood samples and polishing the hell out of a concrete floor to achieve a rustic farm vibe to go with his or her artisanal meats. Godspeed. No such staging required at The Boardroom (3750 Harris St., Eureka), though the redwood slab counters don’t […]

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La Vie en Duck Fat

When the erstwhile bistro Zoe’s newly installed wood fire oven went cold, it seemed that once again you could find anything in Henderson Center (coffee, bike repairs, mole, a haircut, a drink, Japanese kitchen gadgets, Lao rice cakes) except a starched white tablecloth. Then Le Monde (2850 F St., Eureka), a French venture by chef Alex Begovic […]

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Meet Me Out Back

If you’re looking for some industrial realness, the narrow lot behind Redwood Curtain Brewery (550 S G St, Arcata) is primed for your Instagram feed. There you’ll find palettes stacked with malt sucks, hulking silver brewing tanks and the fire engine-red Loco Fish Co. truck. The truck parks there seven days a week from roughly […]

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Doughnuts Rising

Sit-down doughnut options are too few and far between. And yet the doughnut should be a legitimate breakfast option alongside bacon and eggs, pancakes and waffles. Drive-thru doughnut shops are necessary because sometimes time is of the essence, people. But can we not give this glorious, unifying food that crosses all social and political boundaries […]

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Naughty

Let’s not pretend names don’t matter. This week Ferndale’s favorite foodie son Guy Fieri revealed that his trademark Donkey Sauce — principal export of Flavortown — is just aioli. It’s hard to know whether we should feel duped or just relieved on behalf of donkeys. And did aioli really need rebranding? Naming is a tricky business, […]

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Meltdown

Artisanal toast hasn’t yet made its way past the Redwood Curtain but expect it soon. Just wait. Until then, you can work on grilled cheese. The Artisan Cheese Factory, née Loleta Cheese Factory (252 Loleta Drive, Loleta), upped the ante on its bevy of samples when it opened the Queso Kings grilled cheese bar in […]

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Mussel Bound

Put away your clam diggers — domoic acid has put the local clam digging party on hold and mid-calf pants are hard to pull off anyway. But this is not to say shellfish is off the table. In fact, let’s take a moment to appreciate the other mollusks that are so often overshadowed by our […]

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The Upside Down

In the 1950s and 1960s, sweeping into a dining room or a backyard barbecue with a cinched waist and pineapple upside down cake for company was the height of suburban hostessing. The magazine clippings and index cards bearing recipes for America’s own version of tart tartine could have built a land bridge to Hawaii. But […]

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