Saturday, December 9, 2017

Pie/Cake Truce

Posted By on Sat, Dec 9, 2017 at 10:00 AM

click to enlarge Lemon meringue cake: a unifying force. - PHOTO BY JILLIAN BUTOLPH
  • Photo by Jillian Butolph
  • Lemon meringue cake: a unifying force.

Let us not fall into the tribal factions and false dichotomy of pie vs. cake. Really, given the fact that Boston cream pie is really cake and cheesecake — with its graham cracker crust — is more of a pie, are we not already living in a post pie-vs.-cake society? (Drag me in the comments if you want. I said what I said.)

Open your mind and embrace the dessert-fluid lemon meringue cake at Cafe Brio (791 G St., Arcata). Somewhere in the cumulus cloud of toasted Swiss meringue — a creamier and less foamy version of the mile-high stuff of diner pies, reminiscent of a well-browned marshmallow — are layers of surprisingly dense lemon chiffon cake with lemon syrup, caramel and lemon cream. The 4-inch cake ($14) goes further than you might think, serving at least four reasonable people or one person with an enviably open schedule for the rest of the day, while the tall 6-inch cake serves eight ($30).

And once you are made instantly happy by eating this cake, reaching, in your joy, across the pie/cake divide, we can all unite to reclaim pudding and gelatin, restoring them to their rightful glory. That's right. I said what I said.

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Jennifer Fumiko Cahill

Jennifer Fumiko Cahill is the arts and features editor of the North Coast Journal.

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