table talk / By Simona Carini

A is for Apple

… and here’s a mele galette with Italian flair

(Oct. 29, 2009) No fruit is more to our English taste than the Apple. Let the Frenchman have his Pear, the Italian his Fig, the Jamaican may retain his farinaceous Banana, and the Malay his Durian, but for us the Apple.

— Edward Bunyard, The Anatomy of Dessert (1929)

The french word galette derives from galet meaning pebble. Photo by Simona Carini

GALLERY >

In The Anatomy of Dessert, nurseryman and pomologist Edward Bunyard devotes a chapter to each fruit, from Apple to Strawberry, describing, “in seasonal order, its notable varieties, imparting to each a distinctive personality” (David Karp, Preface to the 2006 edition). Although figs are probably this Italian’s favorite fruit, I love apples, and every year I welcome the new crop, a needed consolation for the inexorable shortening of days. I agree with Bunyard when he says: “There is in the Apple a vast range of flavours and textures, and for those who adventure in the realm of taste, a field for much hopeful voyaging.”

My usual breakfast is an apple, and for proper enjoyment I must hold it in my hand and bite into it. I chew slowly and concentrate on its flavor and texture. I like shopping for apples, especially our local ones, and I am always eager to try apple varieties to evaluate whether they are suitable for my breakfast and/or as an ingredient in baked desserts or in creative combinations (for example, with blackberries or plums in preserves).

I believe that it was thanks to Grandma Duck (Donald Duck’s grandmother) that, in my early years, I was introduced to the image of apple pie. I occasionally had torta di mele, a cake that is topped with and/or includes sliced apples (depending on the variation), but I wanted to taste a pie, two crusts enveloping a filling of apples. My desire was fulfilled during my first stay in England: My landlady regularly baked apple pie, and rhubarb pie as well. I loved both pies and the evening ritual that included them: I had a slice before going to sleep, together with a cup of tea. In recent years, I have appreciated a new torta di mele, and to my repertoire of desserts I have added rocciata, an apple-filled dessert from my region of origin (see “Table Talk,” March 3, 2008) — and now, apple galette.

I arrived at apple galette by following an idea that started with apples and crostata (tart). For a person like me, who has substantial problems in making food look pretty, galettes are very attractive, due to their free form. My galette combines a base layer of pasta frolla from my crostata, and a filling similar to that of rocciata, a combination that, I believe, works nicely.

I have previously described the origin and details of the recipe for pasta frolla pastry recipe that I employ. (See “Table Talk,” August 28, 2008.) Prepare the pastry dough in advance, wrap it in plastic and refrigerate it until needed. Set aside some of the beaten eggs from the dough (about a teaspoon) for final glazing on the tart. When you are ready to make the galette, pour slightly warm water over half a cup of raisins (I like to use a combination of Thompson, flame and golden raisins) and let them steep until needed. Finely chop a third of a cup of walnuts and set them aside. (I lightly toast the walnuts before chopping them.)

Core, peel and quarter 2 pounds of apples and divide between two bowls. The apples that will become the top layer of the galette should be cut into lengthwise slices 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick, then tossed with a teaspoon of lemon juice and a teaspoon of sugar. Cut the rest of the apple quarters in half lengthwise, and slice the pieces crosswise (1/8-inch thick). Toss those with lemon juice and ground cinnamon and add the drained, plumped raisins. Set aside.

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