Eyes hidden by the tilt of her cap, Veronica Rudolph pulls a cheese wire steadily through a piece of cheddar the size of a cinder block. As head of the Arcata North Coast Co-op’s cheese department, she’ll likely slice, chunk and otherwise divvy up a couple hundred pounds of cheese, from soft logs of chèvre to hefty wheels of aged Gouda.
And after two decades in the cheese business, including a stint on the co-op’s cheese-centric podcast, Rudolph knows her stuff. “It’s been mostly me looking things up and seeking opportunities for learning when I can and going to cheese shows.” Recently that included an invitation from the Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin to see where the magic is made. She also tastes a lot of cheese, though she says it’s less than people might imagine and mostly so she can ensure customers get something they enjoy. “I am constantly trying to inform and train staff so they know what things are like,” she says.
Cheese, whether arranged on a charcuterie board or stacked like a tiered wedding cake, makes for a delightfully social grazing opportunity among your guests. But approaching the bevy of bries and burratas to make your selections can be dizzying. Luckily, Rudolph has some time-worn tips for putting together a swoon-worthy spread.
“You probably wanna stick to just four or five different cheeses,” says Rudolph. Too much variety “can be overwhelming.” Label each cheese so guests can see what they’re trying and find favorites in the shop on their own later. “People will appreciate that.” Serious aficionados might want to add a couple more, but consider what else is on the table, like bread, fruit and the meal to follow. As for how much to order, 3 ½ ounces per person is a good guideline.
Among that variety of cheeses, consider featuring contrasting density, texture and flavor. Something firm and aged to counter something soft, rich and spreadable. “You can make things more visually interesting, too,” says Rudolph, a hunk of Maytag bleu on her left and a round of honey-dosed Gouda on her right.
Pairing your cheese selection with wine doesn’t have to be a trial. “That’s where tasting ahead of time comes in,” says Rudolph, who believes in trusting your own palate. Ideally, “the best parts of the wine are highlighted by the cheese and the best parts of the cheese are highlighted by the wine.” She notes there are plenty of recommendations online and likely from your favorite cheese counter, but it’s really up to you. Yeah, keep tasting.
In fact, taste early and often. You’ll want to give your cheesemonger at least a month of lead time to maximize your chances of getting exactly what you want. They’ll know how long it will take to arrive from a supplier and how long it can be stored, as well as which varieties are tricky to get ahold of. Last-minute cheese orders narrow your options.
“Vegan cheese definitely has its place,” says Rudolph. “There are a lot of pretty good options for vegan cheese now. They’re a little pricey but we have a whole section [at the North Coast Co-op], and I try to stay up on options.” When laying out the spread, make sure the non-dairy options are well separated so they and their accompanying serving cutlery don’t get mixed up with the dairy and meat utensils, which tend to drift as the party continues.
A kid-friendly cheese wouldn’t be a bad idea, either. “Though some Humboldt County kids have some fancy taste,” Rudolph says with a chuckle. They might end up reaching past the Monterey jack for the Humboldt Fog. Still, she says, “Port Salut is a really mild and creamy cheese that adults and kids alike appreciate.”
Aim for quality with condiments and sides, too. “Have a nice mustard, maybe some different nuts, some chutneys, maybe some cured meats,” advises Rudolph. Adding things like dried fruit is less about hard and fast rules, and more about exploring what you like alone and in combination with the cheese. And pro tip: “You can never have enough crackers and bread.”
As for ease of serving, “If you’re putting out hard aged cheeses, like Parmesan or a pecorino with peppercorns in it, chunking those up ahead of time is a good idea,” says Rudolph. You don’t want anyone slipping with a sharp knife or accidentally hacking off way more than they can chew. Even a firmer brie can be attractively scored or cut to suggest portions for guests to scoop, perhaps with little spreaders.
Having tools out is good, Rudolph says, but “think of the ease of people serving themselves with one hand as they hold a drink or a plate.” Likewise, consider the throng heading for the buffet all at once. It will be far less congested and more enticing to spread the cheeses and accompaniments out — perhaps separated by flowers — so people aren’t on top of each other, vying for a piece of Manchego.
And most importantly, don’t forget to enjoy the fruits and cheeses of your labor. “You spent all this time making sure it’s just right,” says Rudolph, “set some aside for yourself for later.” Or have a friend fix you a plate to relax and enjoy once the frenzy of activity has settled. You don’t want to miss the cheese.
This article appears in Weddings.
