“News is something someone wants to suppress. Everything else is advertising.”
— Lord Northcliffe
Our county is home to countless subcultures. They range the full spectrum, from straight to strange, and rare is the person who doesn’t belong to at least three or four of them. Each has its own particular set of rules and social norms. For the Humboldt County surf scene, the first rule is: You don’t talk about the Humboldt County surf scene.
The logic, as we understand it, goes something like this. Surfing in Los Angeles and Orange County sucks. It’s way too crowded, and the locals down there are rude and brutal to outsiders. We don’t want that up here, so we will be rude and brutal to the LA and Orange County surfers who dare to enter our waters, so as to discourage their ways from taking root here. And we will never speak of our surf spots publicly.
There’s a couple of flaws in this line of thinking, starting with the most obvious — probably a majority of Humboldt County “locals” are themselves from southern California. As one frustrated newcomer put it on an online message board: “There’s no real locals up here, they just came up to go to college 15 to 20 years before you and stayed. You can be like them too.” (This is technically incorrect — there are a few real locals here — but the point largely stands.) More to the point, though, it’s kind of sad that we all become what we hate. In this case: insular, xenophobic, secretive.
Surfer omertà is enforced to an astonishing degree. Two years ago, when we asked Journal contributor Jennifer Savage, the chair of the local chapter of the Surfrider Foundation, to write a surfing story for the Journal, she refused to mention any but the most obvious surfing spots on the North Coast. (See “Camel Rock rights and wrongs,” Aug. 16, 2007). This week, she declined to participate in any way. A year earlier, National Geographic Adventure magazine featured a story by writer Dan Duane about surfing at Big Flat, the famous hike-in spot on the Lost Coast north of Shelter Cove. Amazingly, Duane never typed the words “Big Flat” in the story, instead substituting the fictional name “Ghost Point.” (See “Surfing the Perfect Break on California’s Lost Coast,” National Geographic Adventure, September 2006). After spending a good number of the article’s paragraphs on the pressure he felt from locals and others to keep the Big Flat secret, complete with implied threats of violence, Duane ends the story with an incredible cop-out:
*During the long, quiet march, I watched seals watching us from offshore; I saw an osprey hunting the shallows for fish; and I decided that whatever you think about the surfer obsession with secrecy, whether it sounds like selfishness, silliness or soulfulness, the end result isn’t really such a bad thing. Anyone who wants to find Ghost Point won’t have much trouble — I told you that it’s somewhere along the Lost Coast, and the truth is, the break is known to virtually every surfer with a clue in Northern California. But maybe there’s something great about the feeling that the world is still full of mysteries; ones you’ll have to sort out for yourself. And maybe there’s something great about places, real or imagined, where discoveries will always be waiting to be made. Because at some level, that’s what it’s all about. *
As the big winter swells approached, we contacted a few Humboldt County surfers to ask them for interviews, or to write something for this package. Then we gave up. To a person, they refused. But as Dan Duane knew, all the basic information is already out there, in books and on the Web. In California, anyway, the beaches and shorelines are owned by the public. If you want to surf, you can. If you have a hankering to get to know the glorious Pacific Ocean up close and personal, then you should do it. You shouldn’t be a dick to other people, but you already knew that.
The following are just a few of the dozens of worthwhile surfing spots in Humboldt County. We’re just skimming the surface and we don’t claim to be experts in the matter, but these and regular first-hand observation should get you going.
SURFING SPOTS
Patrick’s Point
Inside Patrick’s Point State Park. (Take the Patrick’s Point state park exit about five miles north of Trinidad.) Call ahead for hours/fees/camping arrangements (677-3570). Once inside, follow Mussel Rock Trail down to the beach.
The authorities disagree wildly about the best time to surf this left-handed point break. Guisado and Klaas recommend high tide, because of dangerous submerged rocks; Wright says medium tide; Surf Forecast says low tide (see bibliography). Everyone seems to agree that it’s an excellent spot for winter surfing — provided you know what you’re doing. The swell here can be large and dangerous. On the plus side, it doesn’t seem to be as crowded as other spots.
Guisado and Klaas also give the thumbs-up to the beach break at Agate Beach, also located inside the park, which they say can “range from fun and friendly to a heavy, aggressive beach break.” They do say that it regularly produces good, consistent waves.
Camel Rock/Moonstone Beach
These are the two most well-known surf spots in Humboldt County — so well known, in fact, that there are endless complaints of overcrowding. Moonstone Beach is located right off the Highway 101 exit at Westhaven. For Camel Rock, take the same exit and drive a mile or so up Scenic Drive until you see the giant two-humped rock in the water.
Both spots are good for beginners; the main difference being that there’s more ocean real estate available at Moonstone. The waves at this beach break both left and right off of the shifting sandbars beyond the low-tide line. This isn’t the ideal season, apparently: Guisado and Klaas say that “[t]he winter surf can be big and fun, though spring and fall months tend to bring waves with less size but better shape.”
Camel Rock is smaller than Moonstone, and so the competition is somewhat fiercer and the scene more depressing — all the more so because it’s a fine break. The Wannasurf verdict: “When it’s going, it can’t be beat.” Though both Camel and Moonstone are classified as spots friendly to beginners, don’t be fooled — the current can be just as powerful here as elsewhere in the county.
Samoa/Bunkers/Harbor Entrance
The Samoa Peninsula — the long spit of land between Humboldt Bay and the ocean out along Highway 255 — is home to a few strong breaks and one devastating one. There are beach breaks all along the peninsula; look for the parking spot pull-outs on the west side of the road south of the Samoa Bridge.
One spot worthy of special mention is Bunkers, out near the end of the peninsula. Take the first right after entering the Coast Guard complex, park in the lot and walk down to the beach. Both Wannasurf and Surf Forecast rate it as suitable for all skill levels, but there can be strong currents here and you should probably be a strong swimmer to attempt it. Wannsurf says that the break will provide both left- and right-hand waves, and works best at mid- to high tide with the swell coming in from the west. It can be crowded.
The entrance to the harbor, way out at the end of the spit at the jetty, is huge and scary. If you’re learning about surf spots from this guide, you do not surf here. “Humboldt Harbor requires experience and demands respect,” say Guisado and Klaas. “Pros and kamikaze only,” says the Wannasurf write-up. “The place rips your wetsuit off if you screw up on a big day and you’ll be lucky if you pop up from the most violent underwater thrashing you’ve ever experienced in less then 10 seconds.” Still, might be worthwhile to take a drive out to the north jetty and watch the pros — or kamikazes — tow in on jet skis to tackle the massive waves.
South Jetty
The Samoa Peninsula’s mirror image, across the harbor entrance encircling the southern half of Humboldt Bay, is a huge nature preserve known as the South Spit. You get there by turning off Highway 101 at Hookton Road, just south of College of the Redwoods, and heading down Hookton and Table Bluff Road toward the ocean. Drive to the end of the road, where you’ll find a parking lot adjacent to the South Jetty. Walk to the beach.
Wright lists the beach break here as “a good summer spot.” Guisado and Klaas concur, adding that “winter surf can be big but not as organized or predictable.” Everyone agrees that you want to watch for swell coming from the south or southwest, which can result in well-shaped and fast medium-sized waves.
Centerville Beach/Cape Mendocino
The southern half of the county’s coast is home to the most wild and undeveloped section of coast in the continental United States — the so-called “Lost Coast.” This is a rocky, remote section of land full of good surf. If you can get to it.
One of the more popular spots is Centerville Beach, a ways outside the city of Ferndale. Guisado and Klaas praise its “outside peaks with long lines.” They and Wright both assert that it can work at any time of year with any swell, but Surf Forecast believes that a southwest swell works best. Take Centerville Road from Ferndale and drive west to the county park.
Writing in 1973, Wright reveled in Cape Mendocino: “Miles and miles of unridden reef and beach breaks … an untapped supply of surf,” he wrote. Probably not the case anymore, but this is still a vast conglomeration of surfable spots far out in the boonies. Wright and Guisado and Klaas agree that you can find nearly any kind of wave here at any time — beach breaks and reef breaks, lefts and rights, summer and winter and anything in between. To get there, drive west on Highway 211 — the Mattole Road — until you reach the ocean. Then you’re there.
Both these spots are a good distance from civilization, so don’t go alone and be sure you know what you’re doing.
Shelter Cove/Big Flat
There are numerous beach, reef and point breaks in and around Shelter Cove, the tiny, half-deserted town at the southwest corner of the county, right on the Mendocino County line. A whole cluster of them can be found on the rounded beach to the south of the town’s airport. They include, at the far end of the cove, No Pass — “a big, tubular left,” according to Wright. Though Wright has plenty of praise for the cove’s other spots, No Pass is the only one to rate an entry on the more up-to-date Wannasurf site.
The legendary Big Flat, Humboldt County’s worst-kept secret, is reachable only by airplane or difficult nine-mile hike up the Lost Coast Trail from Shelter Cove. Google it: People who have surfed the spot revel in its big, beautifully shaped waves and long rides, as well as its stunning location — “[I]t may be the only true wilderness point break in the lower 48,” wrote Dan Duane in National Geographic Adventure.
Again: Know what you’re doing. You’re a million miles from nowhere.
SURFING SAFETY
Ensign Tim Mosher of the U.S. Coast Guard, a surfer and a Humboldt County native, can boil his main safety tips down to three: “Know your limitations. Know where you’re surfing. Either surf with a friend or tell a friend of your whereabouts and when you’re planning to get out of the water.”
The ocean hereabouts is nothing to fool around with, especially in winter. Rip tides can develop upon a slight shift in current. Hidden rocks and reefs can knock you unconscious in a moment. Sneaker waves can rip you bodily from the shore and carry you away out to sea. If you’re not a strong swimmer, a powerful break in Humboldt County can mess you up in any number of ways — and even if you are, you’d better know what you’re getting into.
“A lot of times surfers get in trouble because they go out in a place they’re not familiar with,” Mosher says. This year, the Coast Guard has already rescued one surfer who got swept out to sea at Camel Rock — they’re happy to do it, but of course it’d be better for everyone concerned if they didn’t have to.
One more piece of advice: gear. Surfers from elsewhere may not be accustomed to donning a thick 5 mil suit, complete with hood and booties, but that’s what you’re going to need in the cold Humboldt County waters. Don’t skimp.
Sharks? Mosher is more or less a fatalist when it comes to risking an encounter with a Great White. “That’s something you kind of accept,” he says. “You’re in their environment.” Otherwise, the best advice seems to be, first, to get out of the water as quickly as possible and, second, to fight back if attacked. Use your board or any other available tool to beat the fish in the soft spots, especially the eyes or gills.
Happy as he was to share safety tips, Mosher declined to list his favorite surf spots.
SURFING ETIQUETTE
To repeat: Journal contributor Jennifer Savage, a surfer, refused to participate in helping us put this story together. She refused, even, to discuss issues like local surfing etiquette, which one would think would help newbies and out-of-towners respect the Humboldt County scene. However, we assume that the advice she gave in her Journal story of Aug. 17, 2007, on surfing at Camel Rock, still holds:
“Listen, if you’re new in town, be respectful. If you’re new to surfing, be doubly so. Pay attention to the line-up. Beginners, stay out of the way. Go to Moonstone until you have a sense of what you’re doing. When paddling for a wave, look over your shoulder. If someone else is closer to the peak, either stop or be prepared to pull back if he or she catches it. (If you’re a guy, don’t assume a girl’s not going to catch the wave. That happens too often, but you don’t hear about it because most girls are too nice to cuss you out.) If you’re an experienced surfer, don’t make the beginner feel worse about kooking out, just accept the apology gracefully. If you find yourself in front of someone, direct your board over the back of the wave to get out of the way. Apologize immediately. Pay your dues.”
SURFING RESOURCES/BIBLIOGRAPHY
Books
Surfing California**, by Bank Wright. Mountain & Sea Publishing, 1973. Self-published hippie-era guidebook to the coast. You can still buy it on Amazon. The more comprehensive of the two books we consulted, with dozens of Humboldt County spots listed.
Surfing California**, by Raul Guisado and Jeff Klaas. Globe Pequot Press, 2005. Has much more detail than its predecessor on certain Humboldt County spots, but lacks its encyclopedic range. Functions as a decent general travel guide for the surf-oriented, throwing in notes on area history and community character.
Web sites
Wannasurf. wannasurf.com. “A surf atlas made by surfers for surfers.” Worldwide, but features a dozen or so Humboldt County spots. Lots of pictures, maps and smack talk between locals and the rest of the world.
Surf Forecast. surf-forecast.com. Focuses on the science of surfing, with startlingly detailed wind, weather and tide predictions combined to create hour-by-hour ratings of 18 Humboldt County surf spots. Probably best to groundtruth its observations before taking them as gospel.
Camel Rock Surf Cam. www.camelrocksurfcam.com. When it works, it’s a live picture of the Camel Rock waves and some basic weather information.
Blogs
House of Sand and Fog. jennifersavage.wordpress.com. By Journal contributor Jennifer Savage. One of the goals of the blog is to chronicle every surf session the author undertakes — without saying where she undertakes them, of course. To repeat yet again, Savage absolutely refused to take part in any aspect of this story.
Surfrider Humboldt. surfriderhumboldt.wordpress.com. Also by Journal contributor Jennifer Savage, who doubles as the chair of the local chapter of the Surfrider Foundation. Weather alerts, beach closures and occasional updates on the internal business of this nonprofit group, which advocates for clean oceans.
This article appears in Where To Surf.
Why would you quote Dan Duane, possibly the worst, most exploitive, self centered writer on the planet?
Not a very smart thing to put in the mag, idiots. Wouldn’t want to be in your shoes. Watch your back.
Laughing my head off…the syncophant dying for recognition…now has to delete her silly blog…thank you Hank Sims…you make Kookmeyer look cool!
Damn stop snitchin. What are y’alls next plans, printing where all the mushroom picking spots are? Oh, right, I guess that is a list of them… besides Cape Mendocino.
But for serious, there ain’t no place to surf. Like those cold Lagoon places all got sharks for one thing. Like damn hella people getting eaten all the time. Littered with bodies. Surfboards, mushrooms, and bodies.
i never surfed when i lived in humboldt and i still knew of these spots. big flat is a lovely place–really is. i could keep out there for weeks. i heard the guy is selling the house on big flat. anyone know of that? humboldt surfers are a riot. they really kill me. like the breaks will halt if one more person steps in the pond. find a point and you’ll find surf. talk to a geologist in humboldt and you’ll find surf.
Its really rather simple, surfing has a general code of conduct that surfers learn as they begin to immerse themselves into the activity and lifestyle. There are well know rules and social standards that are associated with your examples quoted on air- Bacci Ball, restaurants etc.. Think about the fact that there are so many variables to surfing from tides, swell and wind etc… If you have the knowledge and have committed the time and effort to go out and find the right spot on any given day then you reap the rewards. Driving to the beach, putting on a wetsuit and entering our sometimes very dangerous waters is a much more critical and committed act than going to check out your buddies restaurant suggestion. If you paddle out and there are a lot of people out then your efforts have to grow with the number of people out. Waves are generally fickle and only slightly predictable so the more people, the lower your odds of reward for your effort. The sensationalist angle of your article could be based on maybe .05 % of the surfing communities attitude of being thugs and beating people for showing up at there spots, actually in my 25 + years as a local surfer the only confrontations I have witnessed are when someone shows up and does not show respect for whose turn it is to go on a wave (general social etiquette) and displays a confrontational attitude. This is only hightened by the intense physical and risky aspect of the activity. The other instances are when people from out of the area come with cameras with the intention of exploiting the information for a publication. We surfers like to think we are adventures seeking thrills away from the masses so we generally do not hype our favorite spots so we can surf with our friends. That said most surfers are highly social and like to make new friends. Friendships are based on sharing experiences and mutual respect.
Free speech is a wonderful thing. One is free to say or write what he or she likes. However, discretion is sometimes a better course than saying, "So an article about local spots is a bad idea? Well, just watch me and I will do whatever someone tells me not to do." This may be one of those times for discretion.
To wit, dragging Jen Savage into the article and into the radio interview was in poor taste. She said, "Leave me out," yet there she is.
Anyway, a few observations from a local. In the interview, I find irony that two people who do not surf are comparing surfing to restaurants and games. When a restaurant is popular, one makes reservations. Why? Because it cannot serve everyone. Same for many surf spots. The significant difference here is that one does not get injured in the restaurant, while surfing crowded places with too many people in heavy conditions is deadly. In fact, any surfer will tell you it can be dangerous even in not-so-heavy conditions. The more crowded a place becomes, the more chance for injury. This is not SoCal. The waves here are often heavy, the water always cold. The danger is real.
Bocce ball? What a comparison. One can build a million courts for such a game. You might pull a muscle. Not so with surfing spots. They are few and far between. The attitude expressed on the air is that crowds are no big deal. However, Camel Rock is a crowded zoo where etiquette is ignored. Etiquette is necessary for all to get waves and for safety. Why is this lack of respect the norm? Too many people. Lots of locals do not surf there because it is dangerous. That is one reason people are upset about the article.
The conclusion reached on the radio (apparently a survey of three people who call in constitutes a majority) was that the locals were "not that upset." Personally I am saddened that, when advised not to go public, that is what the station and Mr. Sims did. And for what? When the article begins, "News is something someone wants to suppress. Everything else is advertising," this is telling. There is no news here, as the author admits, so it follows that garnering attention is the point and selling ads.
To quote one of my younger local friends, "Dude, these guys just don’t get it."
i’m dying here–honest. in the same issue is a column that says an article isn’t worth writing unless it causes people to get their panties in a knot. this article must be worth its while. humboldt surfers, now there’s a crowd. a real bunch of scholars those guys.
it’s written: "We surfers like to think we are adventures seeking thrills away from the masses so we generally do not hype our favorite spots so we can surf with our friends."
boy, what a riot! true princes these scholars are. a wave of riders will be born once the spots are revealed. these surfers are the same who cry foul when the riches want to buy public land or keep their venues private from the public.
the fact is many people know the few spots in humboldt county. that hank didn’t get all of them speaks to his fascination with the false sense of secrecy rather than his true interest in finding the locations.
Dear "Anon last:"
one extreme or the other seems to be your perception. I do not think there are many local surfers that really believe Hanks article will bring on hoards of new surfers. Most surfers just do not feel the need to run around proclaiming where they surf to the masses.
Why would they? Really why are you so offended by people being low key about the exact location of their source of fun? There are as you said really very few unknown surf spots in Humboldt County and most people here know where they are. You say "false sense of secrecy". Well, what if being a surfer means that you like a bit of adventure and discovery in life, not having every damm thing in life on instant gratification mode, twittered, texted, all mapped out and forecasted to the extreme.
Even though most surfers use every bit of technology they can to predict their next outing daily the truth is nothing feels better than lucking into finding perfect waves with few to no people out. Surfers accept that surfing with lots of other surfers is at many times a given but getting uncrowded waves is always a safer and more enjoyable time. If you rock up to a Basketball court and you know the rules and play nice with others then you are unlikely to have any problems as you can stop or start play when ever you want to.Feeling uncomfortable with your oponents attitude or skill level?, hoop is to high? Take a few stable steps off the court and go home.
In surfing, that playground is in constant motion, ever changing and the more players all trying for unpredictable resources the more interferences.
People form general rotations as to who’s turn it is next to ride a wave but then a large clean up set of waves may come through and wash the organization away causing chaos. Add currents, skill levels, cold ass water and fear of sharks and it all becomes more complicated, especially as you add more people. Anyway, most of the post on here have been from surfers striving to explain the reasons for why they may feel a need to be a bit quiet about surf locations, a little bit selfish?, maybe a bit. Concerned about safety in the water? Sure. Wanting to make and earn their own discoveries? Yes.
As far as Hanks desire to stir the proverbial hornets nest, it seems this article has affected the "Anons" out there more than the average surfer. I read a sense of indignation that they may feel left out. The saying "only a surfer knows the feeling" is maybe fitting. Oh, and thank you, I have never been called a Prince or a schollar before, very cool dude.
Mentioning once that someone declined to contribute to your article is fine, but repeatedly complaining that one particular person wouldn’t help you write your story is in poor taste. NCJ is known for bad journalism however. Like others said, this story is just filler, and it made the cover, that’s the Journal alright.
Jesse N is known for amazing journalism.
Problems with this article:
1. The author asked Jennifer Savage for expert information. She’s no expert.
2. The "authorities" are guidebook authors and Wannasurf.
3. In an attempt to hang Savage for her article on only "the most obvious surfing spots" the author cites a guidebook. Have you ever traveled overseas with a guidebook?
4. Guidebooks. Written in 1973.
5. The internet. R.I.P Camel Cam.
This article is embarrassing. The journalism, like the T-S and the Eye, is busch league. Guide books and the internet are used as sources. The author obviously haven’t surfed any where but Shmamel, if he’s even surfed at all. This article is completely indicative of the "surf scene" in this area. Let’s be real. Fundraisers for etiquette signs and showers, a juicebar sharing floor space with overpriced popouts and kooks claiming to be experts. Shakka.
What’s up Hank? Slow news week? Your cover story is not a story at all. A good story has an element of conflict. The only conflict here is that you’re writing about a subject you demonstrate you know nothing about and you ignore the opinions of your best sources. The best guides are written by those with a passion for their activity. It seems the only passion you have is to try to stir some empty controversy and the only surfing you know is on a computer. You asked for advice on etiquette—well, for a start, try listening to the opinions of those who are knowledgeable.
Surfer omertà is not enforced. It’s chosen. You are missing the point. We love and cherish this special part of Humboldt and don’t want it overrun by media hype. Think of this as akin to having a favorite Humboldt County huckleberry patch, fishing hole, mushroom patch, firewood gathering area or hunting spot. Are you beginning to get it? Care to write a guide map for these activities?
Your choice of sources and citing them as “authorities” while simultaneously spewing dubious information has much to be desired; you disregard Savage’s insight from within your own office and rely on information from impersonal web sites from the British Virgin Islands and Europe. I’m sorry, but quoting barely literate anonymous rants from 2005 on a foreign blog does not inspire my respect for investigative journalism. Get a story, Hank. Like; what makes Humboldt surf so special? How do local surfers feel about the proposed wave energy program? What’s the long term swell forecast for this winter? How are surfers actively contributing to our community? Did you ask Jennifer how the participation of the Humboldt Surfrider chapter has swelled recently? Surrfrider is more than an advocate for clean oceans. Why not explore their various campaigns and profile those activities that you find interesting. Get off your ass, step away from your computer and sleuth out a story. Oh yeah, for the record, the party line on the surf here is that it’s heavy, cold and sharky.
Corrections:
The photo captioned Camel Rock is not of Camel Rock. The photo is actually north of Luffenholtz.
Mussel Rock Trail does not go down to the beach. It goes to the reef which is an extremely dangerous place to enter the ocean.
Surfing at Patrick’s Point at the wrong tide is foolhardy.
Agate Beach is not consistent.
Bunkers is not suitable for all skill levels. It’s a deceptively heavy spot.
Centerville is surfable only on the smallest of days. Not a winter spot. Use extreme caution.
Your guide to surfing off the Mattole road is dangerous this time of year.
The landing strip at Big Flat is private.
It’s no secret that there is surf in Humboldt. Just keep it to yourself.
Wow pelican, sounds like you are a solid authority of what the surf scene around here is about. How should it be? About surfboard prices you sound like you don’t know what you are talking about. You must be one of those guys who gets a bro deal from a shaper friend or have not bought a surfboard in a long time. There are around 85 boards in the shop right now and there are maybe only 10 of those that are "popouts". Do you know any surf shop owners? You should ask them what the mark up on a board is. The standard is around 20%. We do not even add the cost of shipping that we have to pay to get them all the way up here. In the end our board prices are average or below the norm and we basically sell them because we surf and love surfboards. The profit is not there and it is really a joke to think you can make money off selling surfboards. Otherwise there would be a lot of other surfshops around don’t you think. And wow, who gets offended by a juice bar? Not exclusive enough for you or fit your image of what a surfshop is supposed to be like, to bad for you. Kooks posing as experts? Sounds like you think your the expert. You sound like another bitter person who gets off on throwing around negative bullshit anomonously. Fundraisers to build a water quality testing lab?oh yeah, that’s something kooks would do, yeah?oh well, hope you get some good waves soon, but keep it real and go to Zumiez or the Outdoor store for your surfwax.
In defense of the defensive.
I’m no expert on surf scenes. All I did was point out the surf scene that exists here. On the surface at least. I’ll explain. Jennifer Savage is not a kook, nor is she an expert. If the author was anything more than a middle school journalist he would have sought out the experts (the jetty boys and the trinidad crew would be a good start). However, he’s a kook and has no idea. But, let us thank him for starting this much needed discussion. Secondly, the mission statement of the Surfrider Foundation states that it is an "environmental organization" focused on "conservation, activism, research and education". The fact of the matter is that many Humboldt county chapter meetings were spent on discussions about showers and etiquette signs. Showers cost money to maintain, waste water and create a runoff problem. Etiquette is a social issue not an environmental one. I think the water quality lab is badly needed. However, after the LGN and now the MPA issue, water quality should have been at the forefront. Fundraisers should focus on funding researchers, biologists and other experts. Those opposed to MPAs have lots of financial and political backing! Lastly, I’ve worked in surf shops, have friends who own shops and shape. I know the difficulties; however, the most "successful" shops weren’t making money. They were social and cultural epicenters. Groms learning etiquette, watching shapers shape and perpetuating a positive scene. We can all agree that what goes on at Camel is not positive. The thing that I celebrate is that there are spots and crews that are keeping it real in our area. They’re doing their homework, respecting what they have and sharing it with those that have the same dedication and respect.
I’d really like to extend a big, heart felt fk you to Hank Sims! Clearly, you are not a surfer, but if you were, I would make it my life’s mission to see to it that you never rode another wave around here again in your life. Some things are sacred and you, my ignorant friend, just took a big dump all over one of them! It is genuinely true that we as surfers do not like to share our favorite surf spots. But that is not to say that we do not accept new comers out in the line up… IF
Surfing is in many respects a very individualized sport. It requires a lot of self discipline, education and physical prowess. There used to be a time when to be considered a surfer meant that you had to be a well rounded waterman (a good swimmer, paddler, understood ocean dynamics, hydrology, weather, etc.)! Now a days, any moron with a Costco bought board can look online at the surf cams and online surfguides to tell them where and when to go. Then, paddle out and drop in on whoever they like (usually endangering or at the very least infuriating others) and call themselves a surfer! Simply put, the reason for so many "Bad Vibes" in the water is because most surf spots are too crowded with too many people who do not belong there(see above). It’s true Hank that you can find all the info you so concisely spewed out online in various places. Sad as that is, it isn’t about that any longer. It is about the respect of customs and traditions that have kept order and respect to an otherwise individual and unpredictable sport. There is a damn good reason why no one wanted to talk to you about this story. Maybe that should have been your first clue…
First off,
Forget the trinidad crew. If spending too much for a grow house makes you a local after 5-10 years, then they can have it. Andy, fozzie (you know who you are) and the rest of those barneys are the most negative thing to happen to this coast in a long time. It’s like trying to localize Rincon. Forget it. I was not born here no did I live my formitable years here. I will be claiming visiter no matter how much longer I choose to surf this area. You can only be local to one place, thats why they call them natives. A good portion of the crusty trinidad crew are a bunch of dudes who want something to be a part of, a crew to validate their self worth. A real surfer just IS.
I dont care how many dues someone THINKS they have paid or the entitlement that affords them, noone is above standard ettiquete. You dont have to be homies with everybody, you dont even have to talk to one another, but paddling around with a scowl and burning legitimate surfers (locals, students, or visiters) is garbage. I know places where that kind of thing gets your fins knocked out and teeth knocked in. This is a small town, smile every once in a while. I garentee you will see that person in the water again, and they probably wont forget you. Respect the rotation, hand off a few waves every now and again, especially if you are in position. Spread the stoke.
Let me clarify something for you. Claiming a crew or to be a surfer is akin to being good at anyhting else in this life. The ones who speak the loudest typically arnt. And the ones who are dont have to explain themselves to anyone.
To the writer of the article, I have something very simple to say: you blew it. Not only poorly written, you article was not informative at all. If an Arcata High student wrote a report from Wikipedia he/she would be flunked. I suggest the North Coast Journal do the same here.
This article is HIGHLY IRRESPONSABLE. Anyone who needs a newspaper article to find the beach doesnt need to be paddling out at the advent of the biggest winter in over 10 years. Im not concerned about crowds so much as people out there who shouldnt be and pose risks to themselves and other around them. This sets a dangerous precedent.
Regarding Surfrider:
We have big projects and small, including beach clean-ups, highway clean-ups and the pending installation of Dogi-pots to help with that particular problem at Moonstone Beach.
What we do is driven by our membership: people have primarily asked for the Jetty shower (a result of the pulp mill suit) to be fixed (it has been), donated funds specifically for a Moonstone shower revival (in memory of Glenn Stockwell, we’re going to do it up), more water quality testing (working on it) and, yes, etiquette signs. We’re always looking for input and volunteers, so if you have something you would like to see done, please step up and let us know.
No one has spoken out against the showers and we’re working with a local company who has won awards for their environmental stewardship. If you — Pelican — have knowledge that would help make it better or evidence of it being a bad thing, please let us know.
When we revived the chapter late last year, we started with about 80 members and $900. Most of this year involved getting the chapter back up to speed, increasing awareness of our existence and listening to our membership to determine our various courses of action. We’re ending 2009 with over 200 members and somewhere around $11,000, thanks to HUGE help from Greenhouse and a stunningly supportive community. It’s humbling.
We’re looking to continue clean-ups and our ongoing projects next year, plus do more educational outreach and whatever else our membership wants within our mission.
Regarding the MPAs, I recently held a brunch at my house with folks from National to discuss exactly that issue. I sent emails to everyone on our Surfrider list inviting them to attend. So far, interest has been minimal. (But it was a great brunch!) Since I am paid in my day job to work on the MLPA, I am making sure that whatever the local chapter does regarding it stems from member interest (as all Surfrider efforts should) under consensus direction from the rest of the board. You want to work on MPAs? I can make that happen.
If you aren’t happy with Surfrider, have things you’d like to hear discussed or insight to offer, please email us at humboldt@surfrider.org. Or come to a meeting. First Tuesday of each month, Plaza Grill, 6 p.m. winter, 7 p.m., summer. We buy the first two pitchers of beer, so get there early. Like I said, we’re always looking for folks with an interest in doing more.
Humboldt Surfrider website
Way to step up, jen. And thank you and Ensign Mosher for drawing a line in your level of envolvement. The authors complaints that information was intentionally with held by community sources goes that much Further to discrediting his work rather than degrading the names of the article’s contributors.
Like growing weed, you don’t talk about surfing. That’s because the guys that come up from LA to surf also come up to grow. Fine with me, but when they think they have the right to drop in on people because they are better surfers, I’ll tell all the wrong people about their grow. It’s a small town.
just read "why oh why" and laughed because I thought of Andy too. Such a douchebag.
You know, I read the article and all of the comments. I think the most disturbing thing to me is the safety issue. I agree with all of the other surfers concerns.
The North Coast is no place to learn how to surf in the winter. I have surfed all of my life, all over California and in places like Hawaii and Fiji. The North Coast provided some of the most dangerous conditions of anywhere I have surfed.
I personally almost drowned at Agate Beach 2 times in one day (I am a strong swimmer) and have been in situations at a few spots where I could not get in because of strong currents. Ultimately I was able to, but I was extremely tired and almost ready to give up.
When you match a low skill/knowledge level with the challenge of strong currents, big swells and rocks (not to mention whitey) you create a dangerous combination. Unfortunately, the people that are endangering others and who are in danger themselves are never fully aware of the extent of damage they can do to themselves or others. If you surf on the North Coast long enough, you’ve seen these situations. They are not fun. There is not much anyone, other than the Coast Guard can do to help you. I have seen Coast Guard rescues at the back side of camel rock, two guys got sucked over there and could not paddle back. Big swell was coming in and all they could do was float because they were too tired. Helicopter had to rescue them.
So, in conclusion, there is a reason that you "discover" a place. Many times it has to do with your skill level or your friends who know your skill level.
Advising people of locations in your article and describing them as "The swell here can be large and dangerous. On the plus side, it doesn’t seem to be as crowded as other spots" you are creating a dangerous situation.
Every year someone dies in the ocean on the North Coast. Usually it is a child that is swept in and the family member that goes in to save them. You watch, it happens like clockwork. The North Coast ocean itself needs to be respected. Then you can get a sense of respect for the watermen that have more experience, more knowledge. Gain that knowledge yourself and you will be respected as well. It’s a process.
Maybe your article should have been about ocean safety for the biggest winter in 10 years. Stay off the Jeddy and well away from shore break.
Also, take it easy on your locals man. Jennifer Savage is great, alive and involved! I’t so easy for some of you to throw out insults. Monty – the real deal making it work on the North Coast.
I just was reading my post and wanted to add to the second to last paragraph:
"Then you can get a sense of respect for the watermen and women that have more experience, more knowledge."
Thank you
What a crappy, snarky thing to do to Jen, Hank! Outting her blog to the legion of anonymi out there is the cyber version of a fourth-grader posting the phone number of the girl that spurned him on the bathroom wall.
Jen knows what she knows because she works at it. She earned her way into the surfing community. You, too, might learn to EARN trust.
And Jen, now that you told them about the beer at our Surfrider meetings, don’t forget to tell them that newbies buy the first pitcher!
Hank Sims, I am very disappointed in you.
"Another note to a Pelican"
Pelican.
Defensive? Hell yes, who would not be. You labeled my shop as overpriced, having a juicer, oh my! and run by kooks. About that juice bar, I am proud to have it as it is a break from the normal little strip mall surfshop and I don’t have to leave work for my coffee or lunch while I watch my favorite surf flick with friends. There are not many choices for employment locally and I chose the one that barely keeps my young family going because it involves what I love and know something about. Funny thing is that you said "the most "successful" shops weren’t making money. They were social and cultural epicenters" and thats how I would describe our shop! When people ask how we are doing business wise I laugh and say the only capital we are making is social.
Do you know how many local shapers there are here? I do and aside for the occasional boards for themselves and their buddies they are not willing to put on shaping demos or make that many boards as they are busy busting ass to make a living like everyone else. It is hard to make a living shaping here as the population is not big enough to supply the demand or no one has stepped up to be a shaping surf monk and do it for the love alone. Might have something to do with the local economy.. Hey how about you? Teaching groms etiquette? This is not So Cal or the central coast, the average grom around here is an 18 year old college student. This is due to the conditions of our surf and geography, little Timmy San Clement cant just cruise down the street on his skate and surf the pier in a spring suit while being watched by a life guard. Humboldt surf is unpredictable, big, COLD and sharky.
Summer time is the time when the groms are out and I should know, I have 2 six year olds who wanna surf.
We definitely have a greater impact with the sk8 kids on the issues of being a well rounded person as they are always lurking about the shop after school.
The way you worded your last response seems to imply that Camel rock is a free for all (it is, I agree and I hardly surf there myself due to all the drama) but are you saying that is the fault of Greenhouse because we don’t educate the groms? Man, really try to see reality for what it is. The grom scene locally has just started to happen in the last few years as more of the local surfers are having kids now. We have always made it a point to tell people that the place to start is Moonstone in the summer whether the newbie is a grom or an adult and right or wrong my standard reply has always been enjoy the adventure of discovery, be smart and find the other spots through friends who already surf them, you don’t need to ask us.
Cultural epicenter? We have that in spades, just not by people who are offended by a spot to grab a coffee or juice while they watch a surf vid.
CONTINUEd—
Continued–
The scene here is full of every kind of person and opinions are gonna be all over the place but change only comes from those who are not afraid to put themselves out there, name and all. See, I have a flaw in that I like to hear opinions and have the opportunity to talk about them openly.
I grew up here and have surfed locally for 25 of my 39 years, I have watched a lot of different sets of "heavies" come and go. Growing up here in Southern and Northern Humboldt I have been immersed in all the different opinions on localism and the overall far North find it yourself and show respect attitude that makes Humboldt what it is, an escape or sanctuary from the masses at more populated and easier, warmer and accessible surf spots. We started this shop out of necessity from lack of availability of equipment and to be a part of the community we live and surf in. Well, I guess the truth is not everyone is going to have the same opinion on how a surfshop should be and thats fine but when you make negative comments on the internet under a pseudonym then you out yourself as a hater.
Full disclosure- I did put 2 posts on here under "Mo" as I do try to stay out of surf politics and was just trying to explain how local surfers feel about this authors issue but I was not making a direct comment about anyone so I felt that was the best way to state my opinions. My answers to your comments were out of a sense of being slandered.
As a surf shop owner I am doing the best I can for our surf community and my family. If you catch me at the right time in the shop, I am always down to answer anyones concerns and ideas that can make the experience better for all of us. Come on in and I will buy you a cup of coffee.
Monty Martin
Greenhouse Boardshop
P.S. I am no expert surfer, rather mediocre really but I do have a great time trying.
Monte – That is not to mention what you have to deal with as a small business owner. I think you have made your point well.
You do bust your ass, as you have done for years for your shop. You are out there creating a great place for kids (and adults!) to go and hang out and aspire to something! Watch surf and skate movies. Your shop sponsors events. Don’t worry about defending yourself too much. Actions speak for themselves.
My dad taught me to surf. I always let him know on Fathers Day how thankful I am that he took me surfing. There are so many life lessons in surfing. One of them is patience.
Ah yes. More patience, thanks for the kind words " done that" The Eddie is on in Hawaii !!!
the thing with surfers is they are all homers. each locale is full of homers who want to believe theirs are the only waters being invaded by out-of-towners. (only people from socal surf socal, you know.)
i am certain–100% to the core–that "been there done that" did no research before surfing fiji or hawaii. with the same certainty i can state he showed up, blindly jumped in the water and didn’t once try to find out where the locals surfed.
the thing is, these homers are all phonies. the only thing worse than phonies are the dog-faced friends of phonies.
question: what do humboldt homers want?
answer: whatever keeps a public place private.
homers say a surfer should have the experience of discovery. inexperienced surfers discover unpopular spots. would a humboldt homer be open to this intruder? they found it on their own and that’s what a humboldt homer wants, right? wrong. now it’s a problem with safety. and if they’re safe, they can’t stay because they’re meanies.
this nimby attitude is not exclusive to surfers. hikers, bikers and other enthusiasts want their token gems untouched by others. the only difference is surfers appear to be the only ones who change their excuse depending on the situation.
take monty. he’ll sell anyone from idaho a board. he might even throw in a juice. ask the prince of proper where to ride that board and he’ll send you off to camel rock or–oh, no–that beautiful treasure in moonstone. because you know what, he cares about safety. he cares about safety and those places are safe.
Patience. Each will expose themselves as what they are.
No need to answer Anon.
Stop snitchin.
Greenhouse is great. I love how every time I go in, people are there with their kids. Everyone that works there is super nice and helpful, whether I’m buying a smoothie or clothes or a new wetsuit for my kid. It’s so family. Greenhouse’s support for Surfrider has been amazing – Monty’s willingness to make stuff happen is amazing. Come to a Greenhouse-sponsored Humboldt Surfrider event and you’ll see a few hundred happy people — old, young and in-between — having an amazing time. That’s some serious stoke-sharing.
Regarding Humboldt Surfrider, here’s a couple more 2009 accomplishments that I didn’t mention in my earlier comment:
In response to our consistently applied concern, the Humboldt Bay Harbor, Recreation and Conservation District removed several "dock blocks" – old deteriorating dock pieces made of concrete, styrofoam and fiberglass – from the local beaches. These posed a threat to creatures and habitat alike.
We also held a community informational wave energy forum in February with representatives from Surfrider, PG&E, FERC and HT Harvey & Assoc. Over 60 people attending, representing a diverse collection of potentially affected stakeholders, elected officials and generally interested members of the community.
That’s in addition to the beach clean-ups, highway clean-ups, shower replacement, etc. all mentioned above.
We’ll be tabling in front of the Arcata Co-op tomorrow. Our Co-op donation number is 87382.
Next meeting: Tuesday, Jan. 5, 6 p.m., Plaza Grill.
Next movie night: Thursday, Jan. 7, 6:30 p.m., Arcata Theatre Lounge. We’ll be showing The Cove.
New for 2010: Humboldt Surfrider T-shirts designed by Matt Beard available at Greenhouse, along with Rise Above Plastics canteens.
I’m a bit biased, being on the Surfrider Board myself, but I am awed by the hard work done by both Monty and Jen in their roles in the surf scene.
Also wanted to add to the Jetty Shower defense: when the pulp mill lawsuit was settled in the early 1990s, the shower was erected to literally clean off the surfers from the dangerous chemicals that were running out of the mill into the ocean and causing rashes and other ailments in the surfers. Getting the Jetty Shower running again recently was a symbolic gesture to a huge moment in Surfrider history, and was paid for by our National organization (which banked off the lawsuit).
The showers are a safety measure more than a luxury (no solar panels for hot water yet!). And during those times when there is bacteria in the ocean up by Moonstone, I think people will be happy to know they can wash off their boards, kids, pets, and feet in the shower with clean water.
i don’t want to pull the tide. and i really hate to see all of jen’s hard work go to naught–honest, i do. i hate to see anyone work hard on something and have it destroyed. so i’ve decided to do jen a favor.
the real humboldt surfers (not you out-of-towners or ruiners) can still read all of jen’s old blog posts here:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&hs=hHW&q=site%3Ajennifersavage.wordpress.com+surf&aq=f&oq=&aqi=
thanks for all your hard work, jen. you deserve more than to have had someone delete your blog. shame on them.
sorry jen, i forget to mention something. in order to read all your old blog entries, you will have to click on the little "cached" link under each result. enjoy!
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&hs=hHW&q=site%3Ajennifersavage.wordpress.com+surf&aq=f&oq=&aqi=
Don’t hate Monty for selling out, he’s not making any money. I have more respect for coreshops like Humboldt Surf, but you can’t hate Monty for doing what most surfers dream of.
No non-profit organizations are perfect. There are plenty of douchebags involved with Surfrider. I vomit in my mouth when I read they are suing the mill (that provides many honest jobs for hardworking families) to provide showers to surfers that can easily shower at home. So when you buy your surfrider t-shit so you can wear your eco grooviness on your sleeve, remember your money goes to lawyers that sue the pillars of our local economy.
FYI, Humboldt Surf Co owes thousands of dollars in unpaid bills and taxes and has basically ripped off every supplier in the business, so much for a "core surfshop". Dick Hertz, not really a fact-checker are you? You write like that other non fact-checker Jen Savage. The founders of Surfrider Foundation, Tom Pratt for example, did not plan on the massive sell-out that Surfrider Foundation has become (Exxon oil company becoming a major financial contributor for example, expensive glossy "state of the oceans" fluff documents etc). The lawsuit here had nothing what-so-ever to do with installing a shower at the jetty, it had to do with stopping the illegal dumping of pulpmill effluent toxins into the ocean.
Hey Dick Hertz 6:54, no need to vomit, the mill is closing all by itself (see the TS 10/21/2009). Also the Surfrider law suit was way back in 1991 and led to
the re-tooling of the mill to a chlorine-free process.
not a fact checker, just a shit stirrir. And I do respect core shops whether or not their owners fall off the deep end. A core shop focuses their business on surf gear, not poser-wear.
glad surfrider cleaned up the ocean, but I don’t think it is fair to criticize the japanese. They kill whales and dolphins, so what, we kill cows and chickens.
You’re more likely to get sick from e coli in the ocean than pulpmill toxins.
I am not sure who this Hank Simms character is and don’t really ever care to for simple matters of respect. I am one of those relocation kids mentioned in the article that has been here for 16 years and seem to have always held strong respect for all local cultures and sub-cultures. And one thing I would never do is EXPLOIT something I know nothing about just because I feel I need to be a recognized contributor such as in this case. Such a settler mentality to step on everything even when people ask you politely not to make mention. Just as indigenous people have rightfully neglected to share information about their traditions or places for worry of exploitation, Humboldt surfers have a similar viewpoint on that. You advertise what we have spent years earning and next thing you know there’s people wanting to make it a destination and then comes the fast food on the cliff. You obviously have never paddled out and nearly got your head ran over by someone who has no clue. The places we surf are often sacred places, such as Camel Rock (a Yurok prayer rock known as poik) amongst many others and I found this article disrespectful to a lot of people, not just the surfers. Think before you leap hank…
ej, shut the fuck up up. you’re a fucking idiot. you wouldnt know any of that unless someone talked about it. a lot of important matters wouldnt be known if not for the public record. this is exactly what i meant when i said surfers are full of excuses. and you admit you are a transplant. so sit the fuck down and appreciate what youre ruining while i take a moment to vomit.
Editor:
Editor:
Are you serious? You seem to be addressing your information to prospective surfers and encouraging them to surf in the wintertime? You should be questioning your own logic. Beginners should wait for the summertime to surf when the ocean is less hazardous.
Are you frustrated because the seasoned surfers in Humboldt won’t give abundant information about the surf spots. You’re an editor! What’s your purpose for editing?
You’re right, the information that you can’t seem to squeeze out of seasoned surfers is "out there", it’s conveniently located just outside your cubicle and toward the west: teh shape of the coastline, the level of the ocean, the angle of the swell, etc.
The Humboldt County surf doesn’t always have a " scene" , it can sometimes be illusive as some locals choose to be. Our apprehensive responses are not to discourage, but to encourage new capable surfers to seek and understand relative information on their own. To invent their own surf adventure, while respectfully, recognizing that most locals are soulfully building their own.
lastly, to be fair, you should let your readers and advertisers in on these other interesting spots to surf; times-standard.com, thejackonline.com,humboldt.craigslist.org, and humguide.com
What to do about Jeff Powers haiku?
He gives us his thoughts on our "secret surf spots,"
yet all I perceive is poo poo.
What a waste of energy! Humboldt surf is heavy and nasty… Don’t worry about it being overcrowded, there are not enough courageous people…. Don’t get me wrong, I was born and raised in HUmboldt and surfed since I was 14…. Started at moonstone and progressed to places luike bunkers and Jetty…. I would still to this day never surf Patricks or Harbor Entrance because they are just downright freaky spots… I have seen people go down at Harbor on a 10 ft. day and get drug 100yards underwater… Bottom line, if you are courageous enough to surf in Humboldt, absolutely crawl before you walk and keep your eyes on the Horizon…. Propps to all the surfers of Humboldt, you are warriors!
Anons Last…pipe down! You can’t type…. so who’s the idiot? Why such a bad ass? The disrespect I spoke of relates exactly to your opening sentence. I can pretty much guarantee you too are a transplant… wherever you reside. Silicon Valley maybe? You ever sit back to think about who’s land you’re inhabiting (vomiting on)? You should quit relying on public record to support your “know it all” attitude. I received all the information I stated directly from NATIVE people of this area. So unless you know what you are talking about, you should humble yourself, build one, and veer away from whatever you’re sniffing. Stick to Soap operas and avoid trying to surf.
I will take you all on.
A big thanks to all who posted something. I’ve learned more about your area than I did from the artical. You want to know what a local is ? It’s someone who’s in there f*cking comfort zone!You have a routine,park in the same spot,talk to the same people,about what the surf is like even though you know.And when ever you see someone you don’t recognize, it mess with your head.It takes away from your comfort level. And when winter comes,do all the locals hibernate? This winter I saw a handful of surfers at different breaks. The key word is( different ).Spring is right around the corner, time for the locals, same spot, same time, same talk,and same wave. Time for this surfer to go, before I get comfortable and won’t want to leave. Just like the waves I follow, never the same…
I moved to Eureka for a year in the mid 90’s for the sole purpose of surfing. I wanted to get comfortable with big wave surfing and that is what I did. Nobody would tell me a thing and the internet wasn’t what it is now. I listened to the buoy reports on the weather radio and kept a log and figured it out myself.
On my first day I went into the surf shop in Arcata to buy a 5 mil wetsuit and asked about the surf around there and could tell by the response that it wasn’t really the kind of question one asks in Humboldt County.
I’m not an outgoing person so it was a lonely year of NorCal surfing… lots of big cold days at youknowwhere and whatsitsname.
When spring came I left to get a good job, something that is rarer in Humboldt County than sunshine. But I do miss that place.
Localism is so childish and self-centered that I’m embarrassed to be a surfer when I see it at work. I have never met a surfer who didn’t travel sometimes to surf. More often surfers are proud of their travels. This means that just about every surfer has invaded a line up, often hundreds of times. Unless you’ve never traveled to surf, lighten up, stop being hypocritical, and share the wealth. Didn’t you people go to kindergarten and learn about basic ethics?
Plus, Dan Duane wrote the most thoughtful, literate book about surfing. It was sorely needed.
my, oh! my, mike. you are a novelty. in all sincerity–a true scarcity in a sea of senselessness. am i being had?
what you see is what surfers oft dismiss and quite rightly explains why they judge amiss.
as they say, let he who is without sin cast the first stone. it would do well for many a (humboldt) surfer to reflect.
Man, if only the NCJ’s staff would be as in-your-face reporting on local politicians, instead of just eachother.
Apologies in advance to all who live in Humboldt but I don’t get all the fuss- I know about all the spots mentioned and I don’t even live there and never have ( I live in NYC ). Blew through there once on a trip up the coast and surfed Bunkers. Cold and dumpy but I’m sure it has it’s days. BTW you don’t know what cold is till you’ve crossed the snow to surf Rockaway. Although we don’t really know what big is out here!!The other high profile spots mentioned except for one are pretty much in plain sight. I keep to myself but still- people were very nice to me. It was the 90’s but the sense I got was that nowhere up there was in danger of turning into Trestles. Drop- dead beautiful scenery, mellow folks, and sparsely populated- can’t you all get along?
I surf with BigFoot.
HA HA HA! sucks to be in that drama. Grew up in Hum now livin’ the life Kona stylin’. 5mil wetsuits ha! shifting sandbars, windy blown out spots BLAH!!.BROWN WATER! Just Support local always!- agro longboarders and mellow shortboarders-thats how I learned. The kooks that brought the So. Cal. vibe taught me how sneek waves deeper than the guy setting up from outside. Yeah! the vibe of south meets north is stupid! just charge! no photos, no maps, no worries brothers! ALOOOOOHA!!- Adrian
All I can say is I’m proud to be a hum local, I was born and raised up here and anyone who says the Trinidad crew isn’t hardcore or committed is fucking crazy. Come on out on a big day up here and try to pull some kook shit, you will learn quick from us. And anyone who says greenhouse sold out, your a fucking idiot. Monty had a great shop, he hooked up me and all the other groms with good gear at prices way below standard. And he only did it because he wanted to see the next generation of locals grow up to keep these beaches and surf scenes strong. Yes some of us Trinidad folks have skowls on our faces, but that’s because kooks flock up to us on good days. And all that matters is I know Andy and all the other boys have my back.
All I know is the surf is cold and sometimes violent. You better know your shit or its body bag day.