When the Fieldbrook Market (4636 Fieldbrook Road) closed, Paddy O’Dwyer was among those who grieved. “We used to come here a lot on the weekends,” he says. “It was pretty sad when it closed — it kinda’ preyed on me. Every time I’d drive by, I’d think what it would take to open it up.” Turns out, it took O’Dwyer and his family, who’ll be reopening the spot as the Fieldbrook Country Kitchen on Nov. 29.

The former Fieldbrook Market and Eatery. Credit: File

Originally from County Laois in Ireland, O’Dwyer moved to Humboldt in 2010. Now in Blue Lake at the O’Dwyer Family Farm, he’s eager to pursue the dream of a restaurant. “It’s kind of now or never,” he says.

Fieldbrook Country Kitchen won’t be exactly like the old place, though O’Dwyer says it’ll still stock necessities like eggs, milk and toilet paper for convenience. Beyond that, he says, “We’re not focusing on so much of a market anymore.” Instead, it will have a farm-to-table menu that leans heavily on local produce, including from his own farm. The menu is in the works but patrons can expect smoked tri-tip sandwiches, pastas, seafood, “hearty soups like Irish beef stew, tomato soup,” and some taco specials.

“We’re setting up the farm and we’ll have the license to be producers,” says O’Dwyer. He also hopes to plant herbs and other ingredients in a greenhouse out back.

“I’ve always loved cooking,” O’Dwyer says, “here I love running the smoker and the barbecue.” But he’ll hardly be on his own in the kitchen. He notes that in-laws Don and Gretchen Elder, who made their bones at Larrupin’, the Benbow Inn and Seascape before retiring, will be on hand, as will Juan Martinez, formerly of Stardough’s, who will be in the kitchen, too.

The Nov. 29 opening is set for 3 p.m., with music from The Lost Dogs. O’Dwyer says the hours will likely be limited for the first month, opening Fridays through Sundays. “They are all great people,” says O’Dwyer. “It’ll be fun times there.”

Jennifer Fumiko Cahill is the managing editor of the North Coast Journal. She won the Association of...

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