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In Defense of SPAM – Part II

“Slow down,” she whisperednow guiding my trembling hands“Turn the key slowly.” Pink tender morselGlistening with salty gelWhat the hell is it? Pink beefy temptressI can no longer remainVegetarian (SPAM haiku collected by Keola Beamer, songwriter and slack-key guitarist)     SPAM, like Coca-Cola, is a uniquely American food. Like Coke, it has a kind of […]

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In Defense of SPAM (Part 1)

Spam! Spam! Spam! Spam! Lovely spam! Wonderful spam! Spam spa-a-a-a-a-am spam spa-a-a-a-a-am spam. Lovely spam! Lovely spam! Lovely spam! Lovely spam! Spam spam spam spam!             “Spam Song” – from the Monty Python Spam sketch   In 1986 I was given a menu from Mr. Whitekeys’ Fly By Nite Club, a memento from someone who’d […]

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National Anathema

Controversy has surrounded our national anthem a long time. But what, after all, exemplifies a good national anthem? “God Save The Queen” was the first, and ought to be a prototype, but it has less to do with England than celebrating monarchy. “La Marseillaise” is splendid, but really about revolution against monarchy. “O Canada”? As […]

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Rescuing the Chopped Salad

Salad at our house in the 1950s was iceberg lettuce with bottled “French dressing.” Seasonally, tomato wedges were added. On special occasions we slathered on Thousand Island dressing, an awful-but-addictive concoction of mayonnaise, catsup and sweet pickle relish, a highlight of childhood memories of vegetables. Mine was the age of Betty Crocker mixes and frozen […]

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Naked Yoghurt

I was 21 years old, and had never cooked a thing. There I was in Manhattan, part of the FLUXUS school of avant-garde composers and artists, acolytes to John Cage. And because Cage was into Indian food (in 1960, virtually unknown in the United States), we all were into Indian food. In the New York […]

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Salt

In the late fall of 1967, the brilliant science writer John McPhee challenged Euell Gibbons (author of Stalking The Wild Asparagus) to a foraging trek along the Appalachian Trail. They would eat only wild food at first. After a week, they planned to gradually add elements of civilization: salt, sugar, coffee, cooking oil. Gibbons was […]

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Confessions of a Champagne Snob

It happens every year about this time, in magazines and newspapers, online: an outpouring of effervescent enthusiasm for holiday sparkling wine bargains. "The best of West Coast bubbly has rarely been better," trumpets San Francisco Chronicle Magazine. The online wine merchant www.novusvinum.com features the "Top 20 American Sparkling Wines," from a modest $19 for Francis […]

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Just Ducky

In the winter of 2007, my wife Beni began experiencing almost daily migraines. She had tried cutting out such commonly-assumed villains as chocolate and red wine, but nothing seemed to work. So we decided to make a frontal attack on this debilitating illness. Over several months, consulting a local osteopathic neurologist and a doctor specializing […]

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Byrd-Fried™

OK, I confess: I’m obsessive-compulsive about food grammar. You know, like the way cases and tenses have to match in prose? Well, components of a meal should do the same thing, or it bothers me — for example, combinations that just don’t go together, like guacamole and knackwurst. Or lamb curry and iceberg lettuce with […]

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More Simple Cooking

A previous column introduced the newsletter Simple Cooking and the writing of John Thorne, whose book Pot On The Fire won a 2001 James Beard Award, and who has been called the best American food writer by both Gourmet and Connoisseur magazines. Based on the newsletter’s success, John and his wife Matt have published six […]

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