This week in my column
I wrote a little bit about Willits
, my hometown, and how it’s become awesome all of a sudden:
Willits is the new Garberville. Only bigger and even cooler. Ten years ago the tweakers owned the town. Now they seem to have been banished. Someone flipped some sort of switch while I wasn’t looking, transforming my bombed-out hometown into a bustling, vibrant place, with pubs, restaurants, cafes, bookstores, cool little shops, a boss skate park. My old high school pals took over the downtown Willits Mall — always better known as “the Morgue” — and sank what looks to be a million dollars into it, transforming it into a big old-fashioned mercantile store.
As per a request
over in Heraldoville
, here’s a thread about Willits. Let’s hope it’s as lively as Willits’ downtown. I have an answer for that anonymous poster: The Phoenix Bakery is still there, and they’re still barbecueing. It’s a weird, eccentric little place of the type that used to be common when I was a kid, and which is now common again in Ye Olde Illwits.
Share your theories about the Willits resurgence, or share a Willits memory. Have a Willits question? I will tap my network of Willite experts to get it answered.
Herein, all things Willits.
This article appears in Rural and Rebellious.
Best burritos in town: Super Taco at the mall on the south end. Muy fabuloso.
AKA the “Nevergreen Shopping Center.”
Dude, once I was all about ST. I was about ST even before ST came to Wickets. Way back in the day, ST was the only outpost of civilization in Ukiah, apart from the Mutt Hut. But here’s a tip: People in the know now patronize the ultra-awesome Mexican grocery/restaurant across the highway, near Chad’s Fish and Chips. You will be blown away.
Incidentally, some English friends of mine once told me that it’s common knowledge amongst Norcal British expats that Chad’s Fish and Chips is the most authentic Brit-style fish and chips in the state. Faint praise? In any case, somehow I’ve managed never to eat there.
Having come from a City which abounds in street-spanning neighborhood signs (San Diego), some of which I’ve worked on, I have to admit that I’ve not seen a better sign than that of Willits. Goudy would have been proud of this use of his Copperplate font.
You know that it’s the old Reno sign, don’t you? The famous one? “Biggest Little City in the World”? Reno got a new one, and Willits picked up the old one on the aftermarket.
When it first went up in Willits, my friend Devon, who I hope will be joining us soon, used to remark that the sign will be very handy once we devolve into a Mad Max-style post-apocalyptic future. Three centuries from now, Willits warlords will ritually disembowel enemy Ukiahans on those razor-sharp spikes.
When I was in Willits and seriously under-employed, I used to survive off the cheap hot dogs served at what we called the Willits Cultural Center, aka the Circle K.
Then it was off to the museum to look at the exhibits for the hundredth time. After that, it was Lucky Lager time. Then, the big entertainment for the day was watching the Skunk Train arrive. Then it was back to the apartment complex to listen to the neighbors fight! Good times.
I was seriously disoriented in Willits last May when my wife and I spent the night there on our anniversary(we were on our way to somewhere else, really). We asked the desk clerk for a dinner recommendation and she said the Thai food at Al’s Redwood Room was good. Hoodathunk?
In the old days, we’d stop and get hamburgers at the A&W when we were passing through going to Sonoma County.
Jack: I remember that era. I’m telling you, it’s all different now!
Did you know that the Willits Snooze is deep in a newspaper war? Yes! Someone started up the Willits Nickel And Dime, a freebie “happy stories” paper along the lines of the Bigfoot Valley News, or whatever they call that one in Willow Creek. Something to grimace at on every page. Seems to get ads, though.
The museum is seriously cool, you’ve got to admit. They’ve got great Pomo and settler collections, and they do some truly interesting special exhibits. They were smart enough to preserve an old hippie schoolbus.
During the first Gulf War, the Mendocino Transit Authority put up a billboard with a grinning Arab holding a gas nozzle. The tag line tried to sell you on taking mass transit as a way to stick it to Ahmed. There was outrage, of course, and the MTA took it down. But do you know what? The hippies in charge of the museum asked to preserve it, and the MTA let them. So that billboard is in the archives. Smart.
And I could invite you to compare and contrast the accomplishments of the utterly badass Roots of Motive Power with our own trainfolk, but I’m not that cruel.
The museum was great, as I recall. There was a really interesting exhibit about the Parducci family. They got busted during Prohibition. To pay their fines, they brewed up more hooch! MendoLand apparently has a long history of making money selling prohibited products.
Speaking of history, I was part of a historic event at the museum – the first derailment of a solar-powered train. It was during some sort of solar festival. I was on the back of a little solar railroad car with another photographer. Apparently, our weight lifted the front wheels and the train went off the tracks. One fellow got cut up pretty bad. I jumped off and didn’t get a scratch.
I doubt that there were many, if any, solar powered trains back then. And I highly doubt that there were any solar powered trains derailing. So that was probably a first.
CPR, don’t you mean Gaudi?
Let us not forget that Willits is also the nearest outpost for anyone seeking Krispy Kreme donuts.
Anon-
CPR definitely means Frederic W. Goudy, American type designer, not Antoni Gaudi, Spanish architect.
I forgot to add my Willits recollection: riding the Skunk Train as a kid on a family vacation. We bought a redwood seedling at the midpoint stop gift shop and planted it in the back yard in Martinez. It’s now at least 40 feet tall and keeps my old bedroom nice and cool in the 90-100 degree summers.
After moving to Humboldt 10+ years ago and driving through Willits well over one hundred times, I have never had to stop for the train. Once for the 4th of July parade, but never for the train.
THANK YOU HANK for this thread. One time a few years ago I was too tired to make it back to Eureka and I stopped at the Skunk Motel, not knowing that they were in their last days. The clerk told me theyd give me a room for $25 because the cable was out. It was a beautiful summer evening and the other denizens were playing guitars on their stoops. I never slept better. A couple of weeks later I was heading South through Willits again and as I came up on the Skunk a truck exited their parking lot right in front of me REMOVING THE SKUNK SIGN. And me with no camera! I swear I felt a disturbance in the force. Anyone know what happened to that sign?
Thanks for the tip on Chad’s.I had no idea.
Here’s more info from a Chad’s fanatic.
The Skunk sign? Probably ended up in the Willits museum. It was a landmark, for sure. Contributed greatly to the branding of Skunk City. Arguably the third most important landmark in town, next to the Big W on top of Red Hill and the Big Cowboy. (Incidentally, have you read the fascinating history of the Muffler Man? Garberville should try to get something like this going.)
Compulsive Proofreader: Please don’t bring up the Fourth of July parade. It awakens all sorts of memories I’m desperately trying to repress.
Goudy could be gaudy on a Gaudi. But it does look good on that sign.
Thanks for the tip about the Mexican grocery, Hankster.
Wondering what you think changed things for Willits…
I think things changed for Willits when the next generation finally took things into its own hands.
In the late ’70s and early ’80s, Willits was happening in the way that it’s happening now. Back then, the hippies took an interest in the town and invested time, energy and dope money into it. But then there was a long period during which the original back-to-the-landers retreated to their places in the hills. The advent of coke and speed had something to do with it — it destroyed lots of community all around the North Coast. So did the general gestalt of the money-crazed ’80s. And then, suddenly, the back-to-the-landers were old and you could get DirectTV in the mountains.
Also, there was the crazy, Prop. 13-fueled boom in retail and mall development, which the Willits city fathers signed onto. The town grew a big ugly tail on the south end, and suddenly everyone started moving around town in their cars. Downtown died.
But for some reason, a bunch of people from my generation stuck around, or moved back. And they’re interested in the town again, and they’ve fixed it up great. I know of at least four cool downtown businesses owned by classmates of mine.
Of course, there’s still tons of dope money. Doesn’t hurt.
I’m not sure how effective Willits Economic Localization actually is, but they’re pretty famed in the Peak Oil world. I know that WELL and the Chamber of Commerce cooperated on a “Buy Local” campaign last Christmas, which is pretty neat and open-minded of the CoC.
Being a big fan of fish and chips (and half Brit) I’m definitely hitting Chad’s next time through.
Years ago we used to stop at the same shopping center where the Phoenix is located to eat at the Generous Armenian — then of course he moved up here. I mention this in part because he has resurfaced. Those who enjoyed his food at the place by the courthouse (later Ijah’s Jamaican now Hu Cafe, Southeast Asian) may want to know that the Armenian is now in the 101 Mall complex (at least I think that’s what it’s called). It’s the place on the south end of Eureka, east side of the highway as you head toward Arcata. I’m not sure exactly what he’s serving since he has not been open the two times I went there. A sign in the window says he producing cheesecake, but I sure hope he still makes dolmas and other Armenian delights.
Re: the Phoenix — we ate bbq there once (I’d called Hank from the car on our way into town) — a great pulled pork sandwich, tender and tasty. But I was kind of baffled by the bakery goods. They were supposed to be “artisan” style, and “organic,” but mainly their stuff just looked weird. There were odd loaves of bread, misshapen pastries priced way too high, $5 or $6 a piece, more for loaves of bread. This was a couple of years back, maybe it’s improved. If it were my place I’d call it Phoenix Barbecue, that’s the ticket when you go there.
Concur on the bread; it needs work. But the pork san was delicious and huge. Had to make two meals of it.
Bruce Anderson once wrote that the arch was something you’d expect of Albert Speer if he was a rotarian as well as a Nazi.
I’ll try the Mex place. Isn’t Chad’s the same that was by the Ukiah courthouse? If so it didn’t sweep me off my feet.
In Willits I’m partial to the hippie Burrito place at the north end. I think it’s Burrito Exquisito.
Willits? Who cares about Willits? I want to know what happened to Ten Mile Pizza and Cream in Laytonville! As if I want to drive all the way to Willits for good pizza.
Sorry, Satanville is outside my area of coverage.
Share a Willitsian memory.
Massive, loaded request, that.
I’ll reply with an exchange from ‘Blade Runner’:
Holden: Describe in single words only the good things that come into your mind about…your mother.
Leon: My mother?
Holden: Yeah.
Leon: Let me tell you about my mother.
[Shoots Holden]
Oh okay. Yoost a few:
Anyone remember Bilbo Burgers? Frodo Fries?
The big ‘Cowboys v. Indians’ fistfight every year on July 4th at John’s Place?
Country Pickers in the Rec Grove?
. . .
A Willits resurgence, huh?
Yeah, they should definitely try that sometime.
Laytonville is a dump. Is the “Willits Bypass” a done deal? I was the only one in my office who opposed it because I LIKE driving though Willlits.
Readers, please note the unconscious Gandhi citation. Sure sign of a hill muffin. In fact, I believe the last civic service this particular specimen performed for his hometown was his gut-busting decision to carry the tri-toms in the Fourth of July parade when he was still less than five feet tall.
Strange, though, how we both lock onto Bilbo’s Restaurant as an early Willits memory, even though we must have been kindergarteners at the time. (I can still picture the sign — it was “bilbo’s,” lowercase, a la e e cummings.) Frodo Fries, if I recall correctly, were spiced and deep-fried potato wedges, later to be known as “jo-jos” and sold in gas stations across the USA. But they were hippie food back then.
I never made it to a Cowboys v. Indians fight, but they certainly were legendary. Please tell me that the Indians won at least as often as they lost.
Anon 10:16 — I wouldn’t say it’s a done deal, exactly, but it’s closer than it’s ever been. They scaled down their plans to make them affordable, and now they’ve apparently got money to run a two-lane bypass through Little Lake Valley.
the lemon-aide served in mason jars- that is one of my fondest memories- was that at bilbo’s as well?
anyone remember?
I don’t specifically remember the lemonade in Mason jars, but that would be in keeping with the Bilbo’s vibe.
How about the Willits Creamery triplets? What a great place for a white bread sandwich and milkshake.
Re: Hill Muffin. Guilty as charged. A roach pilfering, semi-feral child of the Willits hills…
Re: Tri-toms. Whoa, Hank. You get to repress your Frontier Daze Parade memories, while thrusting me up against the fabric of mine?
Shall I conjure the spectre of young Hank Sims’ Wrangler-clad thighs straddling a bucking — Sheep — in the Gymkhana?
Are we to relive our shared darkest culinary days at Bordertown Express? Slinging ‘Mexican’ food. And burgers. And breakfast. With a drive-thru.
No, Willits wasn’t always as, um, glamorous as it is today…
For the Swillits restaurant that has given me the most solid, enjoyable meals over the decades, nothing can touch Ardella’s.
And here’s an unconfirmed Willits legend, Dandy. I have heard from multiple locals that the Little Lake Valley is home to some unique meteorological phenomenon that makes that sweet Willits air much less (more?) prone to atmospheric pollution. Could this be true? Or should I file this next to ‘Chem Trails’?
Fondest Willits memory… There are so many. I am not sure why but the memory of DVO absconding with a cider jug of wine coolers from Border Town Express comes to mind. We went to the Baptist Church to embibe the the carbonated Jesus Juice in order to enhance our video play only to be interrupted as Binkley showed up with a truck full of 8th grade girls (mind you he was 18 or 19 at the time). We left as I had already spent time in the local pokey for being in possession of a chocolate milkshake… something about drinking the shake while in the high school during the wee hours of the morning (2 am) and I thought it wouldn’t be a good mix. Ahhh… good times!!!
As to why Willits is working it’s way back??? I really couldn’t say. I have not been back during the last two years but am hoping to see for myself during the 4th of July. Does anyone know what the 4th schedule will be like this coming year? Last time I was there they had pushed things out so I didn’t get to make the big parade and had to spend my time out near cable rock. The wife fell in love with eel river during that trip. I know we’ll be headed back to the river if we find that this talk of pubs and a cool downtown is only talk. So let’s hope that Hank is giving us the true skinny.
Does anyone know if the Loose Caboose is still around?
You’re not helping, Brian!
How is my favorite Hibbs? Why is it that all of us seem to recall Bilbo’s? Was the food that exquisite? I have a fine photo of the famed “Willits” sign that I use from time to time as my screen saver (as I actually miss Willits). I have such good friends and memories from Willits that I still consider it home. What was it I was supposed to be helping?
Binkley with a truckload of eighth graders? I mean, what kind of image does that paint? What happens at the Baptist Church is supposed to stay at the Baptist Church.
Ah wells. I don’t doubt your love. You gotta take the rough with the smooth, right?
I was thinking that was such a funny little image. Too bad you weren’t there. Nothing like playing excite bike in the early hours at T-N-T. I used to love running into DVO, at odd hours, playing vid’s.
The beauty that is Willits is truly amazing if you stop and take a look. The Eel River, the little water fall off the logging road (just outside of town on hwy 20), the forest, mountains and streams… the list could just go on. There is something about the smell of the forest that is unique to the Willits when you are first driving into the area… it is so refreshing, so sweet, so clean… for me it is the scent of home. Does that help?
Hell, you just made me weep!
Does this help?
“Wht hppns t th Bptst Chrch s sppsd t st t th Bptst Chrch. Lk fr xmpl, Bnkl wth trckld f ghth grdrs.”
I figured I had to go with that name to keep with the nostalgic theme.
Yes, Willits is a far cry from the growing up days we all experienced and I raise my glass to those who have stuck around and to those who have returned to help make it happen.
As for the eats, I am partial to the Sev which is still on the Burrito Exquisito menu. Ardella’s, while under different ownership from our youth, still makes a great breki. Let us not forget a personal favorite Mariposa Market. All you need to do is stop in, go to the far back of the store and sneak a peak and the photo montage that has shots from before I was born to present day to conjure up some memories.
Go Willits!
Damn, did anyone bring a disco ball? Because there’s a party going on up in here!
Favorite Willits moment? There are so many…
I’ll stick to some that involve the current players on this thread:
–> Frolicking in the Eel river some sunny summer day, hear the train coming. Watch as Hank Sims goes scrambling up the very steep, gravel strewn slope towards the oncoming train. Not an abnormal occurrence, many of us used to try to get close to the trains as they went by. Opt to join him in running up the bank to see what he has in mind.
Marvel, however, when I get to the tracks to see the train moving on down the road, back towards Willits, with Sims riding atop it.
–> Me: 15, Bej: 18. Bej’s mom, “Don’t hang around that Q kid, he’s a bad influence.”
–> 15th birthday: bandage on my ear & head from cauliflower ear received at freestyle wrestling tournament in Bay Area. KJG opts to give me very special b-day present, parks behind Baptist Church to get down in th back seat of her parent’s blue Buick. I cannot get the Van Halen 1984 T-shirt off of my head because of the bandage on my head.
When the police knock on the window and try to shine the flashlight in, I (being… um… closest to the window) actually wipe it off to see what’s up. Cop can barely keep from laughing at the sight as he tells us we’ll have to leave.
–> Fourth of July, summer after senior year. Me and Devo hit the carnival with a fist full of illicit “cigarettes”. Devo hands them to the carnie running the Zipper and says, “I want to ride this thing all night long.” By the end of the first cycle he’s about to puke – more to do with the booze than the ride.
Take him to Taco Bell – doesn’t help. Take him home, put him to bed (one of the rare times he [or anyone else] passed out before me) and go back to the carnival. Me to carnie, “Remember me? Good, let me on.”
–> Y? Y not?
–> One of my last summers in Willits was spent working 6am – 2pm construction shifts, then going for massive mountain bike rides in the late evening when it was cooled down enough. One weekend Alphons and I rode up Sherwood, hopped a logging trail, and went all the way to Fort Bragg.
At the top of the highest summit we looked out, seven more ridges before us stretching out to the ocean, before bombing a dirt version of 7-mile grade for the next 30 minutes. Beautiful country, that.
C’mon, people… what about the Willits Creamery? There were identical triplets working there. They wore the same clothes. They talked the same. Does no one have a comment? It was my favorite stop in Willits back in the day.
My comment is that while they did all dress and talk the same, The Willits Creamery’s Colli Sisters were in fact identical TWINS, plus another sister. Back in the day.
A quarter for an ice cream cone… how could I forget!!! The dresses were out of this world and if I recall correctly the ladies made all of them.
The last time I visited the museum in Willits there was an entire exhibit dedicated to the Creamery, really worth checking out if it is still on display.
Go Willits!
I just looked up info regarding the Creamery exhibit at the museum.
It is the entire interior of the Creamery on display and it is a permanent installation. I highly recommend a visit.
See, Capdiamont? I got mad train cred! My man Q can testify!
They even have life-sized models of the Collis. You should really check it out, SR. The museum took a little slice of the counter and preserved it for eternity. Original stools, signs, milkshake machines, everything.
I too was a witness to Hank’s legendary train hop. Your train cred is madcap and corroborated.
Q’s birthday party, 7th grade if memory serves, crawling several hundred feet through an underground drainage pipe with nothing but a few paper matches to light our way. The muck and the mire got deeper, nerves began to fray, there was even talk of turning back. We slogged on. After spilling out the other end and basking in the adrenalin, Whispering Steve was there, with quarters, so’s we could wash our mudcaked clothes and play some vids. RIP Steve.
Chanting down the proposed Harwood biomass plant. “Harwood not gonna burn our wood… if ya wanna burn, YA CAN BURN IN HELL!” repeat chorus. I like to think we made a difference that night.
Don’t know if this one technically qualifies since it occured at Lake Mendocino, but the players definitely qualify. How about the whole damn crew backing me up when Ripper and Hambone tried to snake my sleeping bag! Sluts! Don’t know if I ever thanked y’all for that, so thanks for that.
Willits is developing in a fairly groovy manner, maybe the tide turned when, a number of years back, the sherriff announced that dope growers were not a priority for law enforcement. Seems like it took the edge off the scene and allowed it the legitimacy that it deserves. What shocks me is that Willits doesn’t have a good indoor music venue or a micro-brewery, it seems more than ready for both.
I’ll leave you with a good view. The top of Red Hill after a long hard rain, seeing the valley in full flood is stunning.
Good Night
Dont know if anyone is still posting here but I thought it worth mention that the new Sunset features a Willlits nonprofit called Bountiful Gardens specializing in organic intensive ag and mail order seeds for killer tomatoes, not the movie kind but the slicing kind. They have a retail outfit in downtown Palo Alto, and a website.Very impressive, apparently not open to visitors (in Willits).
The surly waitresses at Gargoyle’s, in the wee hours of the night.
The magical potion: 1 part Dr. Pepper to 4 parts Bacardi Rum.
Rippy, and his special scent.
The forlorn bleating of a recently sullied beer-bong, somewhere deep in the night.
Magic Brownies. Magic Pasta. Magic Magic.
Car windshield sprayers, full of purpose, facing away from the vehicle.
A strange maniacal cackle from a mysterious passing vehicle.
These will forever be my memories of Willits.
(nice blog, sir.)
Ho, I thought everyone forgot about that but me!
Well played, mysterious stranger.
Say, what’s a ripper? Anyone?
Trust me — the less said about it the better.
Is it a painful subject? For you?
Definitely.
Hahahaha. Hysterical. Painfully so, I imagine.
Come on. I dare you to elaborate.
double dare you.
?
I loved sandwiches and salads at Loose Caboose Cafe.
We just moved away in November (regardless of what you say, the local crop is still the main thing going on in town…) and we were definitely noticing that a lot was happening around town. New signs going up, buildings being painted, new stores going in (FINALLY something was being put in the Country Mall building!) It was nice to see. But I was still glad to finally make my escape. LOL
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