Allium Weather

(Feb. 17, 2011) What a totally summery February! I’ve been sending smug pictures of myself on the beach to all my shivering amigos in New York. Ha, ha, suckers! However we all know this weather is not built to last, as is evidenced by the plethora of winter vegetables still plaguing the larder like the last drunken guest. It may be summer weather but summer produce is still far away.

My mounting rage at tubers has been somewhat ameliorated by alliums, the family of plants that includes onions, garlic, chives, shallots, scallions, and most excitingly, leeks. (!!!!!) Big huge piles of steaming buttery caramelized leeks, glistening and flecked with pepper. Crispy little fairy-like fried shallots, fragrant, rich and salty-sweet. And onions.

leeks PHOTO BY BOB DORAN

GALLERY >

Oil and roast an onion, wrapped in foil. With relatively little added fat, they melt into a sweet jammy-textured treat that tastes amazingly rich eaten with a fork and knife. With buttered bread, it’s a delicious and frugal lunch. Recently, I’ve been enjoying the crisp sharpness of raw onions as well. It’s true, they are strong, but the sharp watery bite is reminiscent of radishes and wasabi, and is easily mitigated by slicing thinly and layering on buttered brown bread with a little salt. Just ask your hot date to please remain three feet away at all times for the eight hours post-prandial.

Roasted garlic has been a standby as a spread for ages, and deservedly so. But alliums can move far so beyond that. The ‘80s are over! We’re all sick of Provencal cooking! Can you believe in the ‘50s they recommended you remove the garlic clove before serving?

Thank goodness we live in these enlightened times, when no one thinks I’m weird for munching a handful of chives. I am particularly fond of chives because they are very easy to grow in a tub, and they are mild and spring-like even in the winter. I do love all alliums, but it must be said leeks and garlic usually require cooking to mitigate toughness and flavor. Chives are more accessible. I keep a handful of chives in a glass by the sink, where they look beautifully green. Their tender mild flavor, redolent of onions, garlic shoots and grass, adds color and flavor to almost any dish: on top of toasted English muffins with melted sharp cheddar (my favorite), bagels and cream cheese, eggs, curried eggplant, poached salmon, etc. Finely minced and mixed with mayonnaise, they make a versatile and colorful sauce. They would be a nice addition chopped and sprinkled on any of the recipes below.

BROWNED LEEKS

I sometimes use this instead of pasta under sauce, or of course just on its own.

2 leeks, chopped into 1/2 in. slices up till where the leaves separate. Wash carefully to remove grit.

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