table talk / By Simona Carini

Winter Rainbow

Few things beat roasted winter squash, in all its varieties

(Nov. 29, 2007)  Acorn, buttercup, butternut, carnival, delicata, Hubbard, kabocha, red kuri, spaghetti — seeing the different varieties of winter squash displayed in our local grocery stores brings a poetic expression to my eyes. An expression that is, covertly, the expression of a scheming cook. From dark green acorn to deep orange red kuri, from smooth-skinned butternut to warty Hubbard, winter squashes are a kaleidoscope of shapes, colors and flavors that offer plenty of material to the creative kitchen artist.

First, a tidbit of information: The designation “winter squash” refers to when they are eaten. Winter squash, in fact, are neither grown nor harvested in the winter. They grow during the summer and are harvested in late summer and fall, then stored and eaten throughout the winter. Thanks to their thick, hard skin, they keep well for several months (stored in a cool well-ventilated place), and this characteristic explains their historic success among people who did not have refrigerated storage facilities.

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Then, a tidbit of history: Squash was a staple food of Native Americans. In particular, the inhabitants of the Eastern Woodlands (present day eastern United States and Canada) interplanted squash with corn and beans in a system called the Three Sisters, which exemplifies a worldview mindful of the interrelation of living things. Corn stalks provided support for the beans, which, in turn, contributed nitrogen to the soil, thereby helping corn thrive. The broad leaves of low-growing squash preserved soil moisture reducing the use of water and inhibiting weed growth. The Three Sisters complemented each other nutritionally as well, and could be eaten fresh or stored for later consumption.

Finally, a few tidbits about savoring winter squash: The following is a recipe for a side dish. My favorite kind of squash for it is the red kuri (aka, Uchiki kuri, or curry squash, a moniker I personally do not like). I sometimes mix and match different types of squash, except when I cook butternut squash, which I consider a prima donna that does not like to share the stage, at least for this act.

If the chosen squash is relatively soft-skinned, like delicata, simply cut it in half and remove the seeds. I used to employ a melon baller for this task, which conveniently allows you to follow the curvature of the internal cavity of the squash at hand. Last year, though, I tried using a grapefruit spoon and that has become my tool of choice. The tiny teeth of the grapefruit spoon, in fact, are particularly helpful in removing the threads.

Spray a baking sheet with olive oil and place the squash halves on it, cut side down, then bake at 375 degrees F for 45 minutes — more or less, depending on the size and thickness of the pieces — until the squash is soft, easily pierced with a knife. The time requirement is really variable and I suggest that you keep a close eye on what is in your oven after the first half hour. In time, you will learn the time requirements of your favorite types of squash.

If the squash is hard-skinned, pierce it in a few places with a knife and bake it whole for 25 minutes at 375 degrees F, then let it cool slightly, cut it in half, seed it and bake as above for another 40 minutes or so until the squash is ready. This method is substantially better, not to mention safer, than breaking your knife while trying to halve a squash (which has happened to me once).

While the squash is baking, spray a small frying pan with olive oil, let it warm up on medium heat, then add some chopped onion. The amount of onion depends on the size of the squash and your personal preference. My basic algorithm is half a pound of onion for three pounds of raw squash. Add some chopped fresh herbs to the onion: rosemary, thyme and any other herb you like. Let the onion cook over low heat, covered, until it is quite soft (15-20 minutes), adding one to two tablespoons of water or vegetable broth to the pan to prevent the onion from becoming too dry and possibly burning. At the end of the cooking time, sprinkle salt and freshly-ground pepper to taste, then turn off the heat and keep warm until the squash is ready to be seasoned. Instead of the onion, you can use one large leek or two small ones cut into 1/8 inch-thick slices.

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