Owner Talia Nachshon at the tap. Credit: Photo by Aoife Moloney

It’s fitting that a brewery named after the North Coast’s rivers swims upstream. At a time when alcohol consumption has fallen generally, and beer drinking has fallen particularly, Six Rivers Brewery has just expanded its brewhouse and significantly upgraded its equipment. They also have a semi-new chief brewer, Aaron Weshnak. 

A flight of six to sample. Credit: Photo by Aoife Moloney

Weshnak’s beer journey goes back to his early adulthood in New Jersey, where he worked in a wine-centric retail business, he explained as the lunch crowd streamed in. He started homebrewing, catching the beermaking bug. He followed his interests to an intensive master brewing program at University of California Davis and, while studying, scored an internship at brewing powerhouse Lagunitas. This led to stints at Lost Coast Brewery, Russian River Brewing Co., a now-defunct place in San Francisco called Sunset Reservoir — it was near a reservoir and there were sunsets — back to Lost Coast Brewery, to the short-lived Korean startup Booth Brewing Co. and another Korean-inspired brewer called Dokkaebier, and recently to Six Rivers Brewery. 

A flight of six to sample. Credit: Photo by Aoife Moloney

As Weshnak and I talked, we nerded out a little on beermaking stuff. He explained the mix of adjunct grains and hops that provide the molecular magic to make the haze in a hazy IPA. We talked about achieving consistency and Aaron said that “a good brewer can make the same beer over and over; a great brewer can do that regardless of changing conditions.” Despite the geekery, he said, in the end what is most important is that people “come in and enjoy it.” 

Like others who work in a brewhouse, he described it as “blood, sweat and tears, and then more sweat.” 

Jell-O shots in fancy flavors. Credit: Photo by Aoife Moloney

When we spoke, construction was still hindering brewhouse operations and the number of beers on tap was somewhat limited. That didn’t keep me from enjoying a nice flight of brews, starting with the Los Mexican Lager (named for long-time former head brewer Carlos “Los” Sanchez). It’s an honest and very drinkable end-of-the-day, pair-it-with-a-burger kind of beer. Next up was the Macadamia Nut Porter. It’s smooth, with a noticeable nuttiness and that beautiful, creamy porter head. Then came the Lady’s Hazy IPA, named for the outfit’s rescued brew dog. It hit the requisite New England notes, fruity with a soft mouthfeel. The raspberry lambic is a go-to order for me when I’m on site because it’s not something you find everywhere. Each seven-barrel batch includes Belgian dark candy syrup and 400 pounds of raspberries, giving it a lovely red color. Last up was the Bluff Creek Pale Ale. This classic American pale ale is one of my likely answers to the question, “If you had to pick one, which local beer would you take for a year living on a desert island?” It’s got a bright up-front hoppiness — not too much — and invites you to drink another.

Credit: Photo by Aoife Moloney

Weshnak has tinkered with the Bluff Creek Pale Ale recipe. He is planning a refresh of the wheat beer on offer, likely moving to more of a wit style. He also spoke a little mysteriously about a new IPA, one that he hopes will be a West Coast meets Midwest approach. 

The food menu provides a happy mix of pub food plus. There are poppers and upscale fries to pair with your beers and cocktails. Weshnak, who calls himself a chicken wing afficionado, says theirs are the best in town. Local grassfed beef features prominently in the burger selections and locally caught fish offer seasonal options for halibut and chips, rock fish tacos and the tuna melt. The stone baked Fig & Pig pizza is bacon-y with some heat. Or you can choose from several classic salads.

A flight of Six Rivers Brewery craft beers from berry to IPA and a homemade soft pretzel, served warm with honey mustard and beer cheese sauce. Credit: Photo by Aoife Moloney

Aside from providing food and drinks, Six Rivers Brewery serves as a model in creating community, which is a Humboldt County theme. It collaborates extensively with other Humboldt businesses, featuring local distillery products on the cocktail menu and inviting food trucks to pull into the parking lot. The restaurant serves as a kind of unofficial community hub in unincorporated McKinleyville, too. 

Six Rivers Brewery

1300 Central Avenue, McKinleyville

sixriversbrewery.com

707-839-7580

With brewhouse construction wrapped up at last, the brewhouse returns to full-scale operations. And while a number of Six Rivers’ signature beers are available in cans in about two dozen Northern California counties, it may be best enjoyed among the locals who’ve made the U-shaped bar, barrel tables and cozy nooks their second homes. Grab a table on the patio under a heater for a round or two. There’s a great view of the ocean and there will be sunsets.

A toast on the heated patio. Credit: Photo by Aoife Moloney

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