Sunday, January 28, 2018

It's All Gravy

Posted By on Sun, Jan 28, 2018 at 11:22 AM

click to enlarge Biscuits and andouille sausage gravy, cher. - PHOTO BY JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Photo by Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Biscuits and andouille sausage gravy, cher.

In the interest of transparency, I would like to confess that I have been closed minded about biscuits and gravy. Haunted by a decades-ago plate at a truck stop near the border of Texas and Arkansas with payphones in the dining booths, it was hard to accept any variation on the standard dusty-topped, fluffy biscuit all but drowned in peppery, white pork sausage gravy. Only recently have I opened my heart and its attending arteries to anything else.

A fellow Journal staffer recommended the Cajun biscuits and gravy ($8.25) at Henderson Center's Cafe Nooner Too (2910 E St., Eureka) but I hesitated because it's made with andouille sausage. On a recent rainy morning, leaning into the steam from a full order, I got over it. The garlic and wine flavors from the andouille sausage make for a hammier, more aromatic pan gravy that's homey and satisfying. Dig under the smothering blanket and your fork will hit a pair of split rolled biscuits that pull apart in dense layers. The Nooner kitchen wisely avoids trying to make it pretty — this is comfort food, after all, a hot plate to finally warm your bones on a rainy morning, not a beauty contest. Best to keep it simple.

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About The Author

Jennifer Fumiko Cahill

Jennifer Fumiko Cahill

Jennifer Fumiko Cahill is the arts and features editor of the North Coast Journal. She won the Association of Alternative Newsmedia’s 2020 Best Food Writing Award and the 2019 California News Publisher's Association award for Best Writing.

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