Friday, February 20, 2015

Crab Invasion

Posted By on Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 2:40 PM

Stop talking. Eat it while it's hot. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Stop talking. Eat it while it's hot.

In the same way that pumpkin spiced everything shows up in the fall, in winter legions of crab specialties hit our county like Attack of the Crab Monsters, which maybe you caught during the Crab Festival. The overwhelm — not to mention the underwhelm — is enough to send you straight back to cracking your own. Retreating into reactionary crab fundamentalism is safe enough (when has the boiled or steamed dungie ever let you down?), but you'd be missing out on the possibilities.

Take a chance on the fettuccine with crab ($29.95, $24.95 a la carte) at Sea Grill (316 E St., Eureka). Firm pasta is tossed in a seriously creamy Alfredo sauce and fresh crab meat. The sauce is rich with cream, not gluey, but neither it nor the sprinkle of Parmesan overpowers the crab's sweetness. It will, however, seize up a bit if you let it go cool, so pause your conversation and eat. A dining companion declared this decadent hybrid the best way to eat crab besides plain. Purists who refuse to eat seafood with cheese may find themselves lured by the aroma into joining the Philistines. We welcome you. 
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Sunday, February 15, 2015

Korean Tacos: Geography vs. Destiny

Posted By on Sun, Feb 15, 2015 at 11:20 AM

Korean tacos worth a schlepp. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Korean tacos worth a schlepp.

The Bering Strait, scientists speculate, could have once been a land bridge between Asia and North America. Just a hop, skip and a jump across some glaciers, and yet we've had to wait thousands of years for that hybrid of Asian and Mexican cuisine, the Korean taco. It's a schlepp to to the Creamery District parking spot of the Taco Faktory truck on L street between Ninth and 10th streets in Arcata (tacos also show up at Richard's Goat Tavern & Tea Room on occasion), but not when you consider that hike across the Bering Strait.

Or when you get your $4 pair of Korean barbecue beef and pork tacos. (There are whispers about Thai burrito, but it only shows up on Wednesdays.) The warm corn tortillas are heaped with pyramids of smoky-sweet, juicy meat seasoned with deep-red Korean chili paste and topped with cilantro, lettuce and onion. Instead of brooding impatiently over a table-top grill and pretending to follow conversation with your Los Angeles friends while you wait for your next bite of meat to cook, get instant gratification. A squeeze of lime and you're there. You're not the boss of me, changing sea levels and shifting land masses. Mere geography cannot stop destiny. Or the Korean taco.
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