Friday, January 30, 2015

Fried Pie

Posted By on Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 4:17 PM

Just like Mom used to fry. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Just like Mom used to fry.

What could be more American than apple pie? Easy. Deep fried apple pie. And you needn't wait until summer for some carnie at the fair to snuff out a menthol and drop a wedge of frozen pie into bubbling grease. Aim higher. 

Slice of Humboldt Pie (3750 Harris St.) makes fried apple pies you can hold in one hand that are stuffed with firm, tart and tender chunks of spiced fruit. The crust is flaky and buttery, not leaden, the kind of ribbon-hogging texture that takes years to develop what they call "a hand for." The rest of us will just focus on the hand holding the pie. If you are a planner, you can call up and have such pies made to order. If, on the other hand, you are at the mercy of impulse, you can pick one up at Old Town Coffee & Chocolates for $5. 
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Sunday, January 18, 2015

Playing Chicken

Posted By on Sun, Jan 18, 2015 at 3:08 PM


It's always a gamble, an act of guts. You look at the words "fried chicken" on the menu and you just don't know. Because what you want is so specific: the crunch, the salt-and-pepper simplicity, the juiciness. You lock eyes with the server, making everybody a little uncomfortable, and ask, "How is the fried chicken?" with the same intensity with which Liam Neeson might ask, "Where is my daughter?"

First off, the waiter at Five Eleven (511 Second St.) is not rattled by interrogation and his intel on the Georgia fried chicken is solid ($21.95). A thigh, a leg and a breast arrive with a slope of smooth mashed potatoes, light rosemary gravy and kale with bacon fat. The free-range chicken is served truly hot, and the peppery crust delivers an audible crunch. If you are not careful, someone in your party who has chosen a salad or some kind of small plate will hear it. If he or she swoops in on your drumstick, don't despair. Even the breast is juicy and flavorful beneath its dark coating. Totally worth the gamble.
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