Winter Simmer

Winter Simmer

Turkish, Iranian and Russian-Jewish soups

(March 16, 2017) Are you tired of talking about the weather? If so, dear reader, I apologise because I really can't avoid it if I am going to write about soup. As I...

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Poulet Yassa

A savory taste of West Africa

(March 9, 2017) I was not an unusual child in my dreams of traveling to distant places. Geography was one of my favorite subjects in school and the globe a companion to my...

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Hum Plate Roundup

Eat your fear

(March 2, 2017) Intercontinental Breakfast There's a daredevil glee in chowing down in a greasy spoon, casting hygiene-related fears aside, scratching the mystery spot off your glass and regard your plate — its...

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Hunter's Tortilla Soup

With wild rabbit

(February 23, 2017) Late winter is the perfect time of year for enjoying a hot bowl of spicy soup. There is nothing like the warmth of the stove as a hot pot simmers...

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A love-hate relationship

(February 16, 2017) Lumpia has always brought a sort of nostalgic discomfort to me — more specifically, to my stomach. Lumpia is simply a fried egg roll filled with ground pork and...

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Juice(d) Cocktails

The healthy way to drink

(February 9, 2017) The ethical undertones of the New Year implore us to take the temperature of our overall health and issue a progress report. But as the weeks tick on, we grow...

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Winter Fare

Dark leafy greens two ways

(February 2, 2017) Winter has flowed in (or, more precisely, flooded in) with atmospheric rivers. While the variety of produce now is not as wide as at other times of the year,...

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Into the Woods

For wild mushrooms

(January 26, 2017) The frequent rain and heavy fog of autumn and winter on the North Coast brings an astounding abundance of edible fungi. From chanterelles to oysters, hedgehogs to boletes, there are...

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Chickpea and peanut stew

(January 19, 2017) A month after we married in the late '70s, my husband Barry Evans and I decided to stop eating meat. Which wasn't that difficult because, although I was raised on...

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New Grit

Shrimp and green chili cheese grits

(January 12, 2017) The sweet smell of simmering grits wafts through the kitchen. As they cook, the grits gently bubble, pop and thicken into a golden, luscious porridge. They are made even more...

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How to Dine Alone

A guide for aspiring wolves and lions

(January 5, 2017) In my lumpy, small-town adolescence, I found escape from awkwardness on trips to my mother's office in New York City. If she was too busy, I'd have a museum pass...

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Seedy in a Good Way

Baking and eating together

(December 29, 2016) Behind my culinary endeavors people expect to see an Italian grandmother on whose knees I learned to cook. My Italian nonna, however, died when I was not yet 2 years...

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Nasty Women in the Kitchen

Bring hot ham sandwiches to the party

(December 22, 2016) Can we agree it's been a long year? Granted, this statement depends partly on one's political persuasion. But for roughly half of us (some would say over half), the fatigue...

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Humboldt on Tap

Geon-bae, South Korea — this beer's for you

(December 15, 2016) Next time you're wandering Eureka's waterfront, take a moment to look west and remember: All that lies between you and South Korea is a boat ride. "A very short boat...

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Spoiled for Bread

Bake your own and never go back

(December 8, 2016) Maybe because I bake bread so much, friends give me cookbooks about it. I just pulled one of them off the shelf that has nearly 200 recipes. I just use...

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Seed and Potatoes

Wild mustard seed aloo matar

(December 1, 2016) Wild mustard greens frequent my table every winter and spring in a variety of dishes ("Spring Curry," June 9). But until recently, I had never thought to try gathering the...

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