A big thanks to all who posted something. I've learned more about your area than I did from the artical. You want to know what a local is ? It's someone who's in there f*cking comfort zone!You have a routine,park in the same spot,talk to the same people,about what the surf is like even though you know.And when ever you see someone you don't recognize, it mess with your head.It takes away from your comfort level. And when winter comes,do all the locals hibernate? This winter I saw a handful of surfers at different breaks. The key word is( different ).Spring is right around the corner, time for the locals, same spot, same time, same talk,and same wave. Time for this surfer to go, before I get comfortable and won't want to leave. Just like the waves I follow, never the same...
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In Print This Week:
Apr 20, 2017
vol XXVIII issue 16
North Coast Journal
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