table talk / By Joseph Byrd

In Defense of SPAM – Part II

“People need high quality protein and natural fat in their diet for health and weight control. SPAM is a product that provides them.”

SPAM is consumed all over the world: stir-fried with noodles, in fried rice, in burritos, soups and sushi. SPAM musubi, which originated in Hawaii, has gained popularity in Japan and Korea. Virtually all of these cultures use SPAM to provide bursts of flavor and nutrition in otherwise high-carbohydrate meals. But not always: former San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic Stan Sesser wrote of visiting a remote Hmong village in the mountains of Laos, where as an honored guest he was served “skewered charcoal-broiled cubes of an Asian kind of paté, with a fiery dipping sauce.” He was charmed — until he discovered what I think you can guess.

It’s clear that a lot of Americans don’t “get” SPAM. Disregarding all the jokes, the Monty Python sketch, SPAM sculptures and the many SPAM festivals and cook-offs from The Maryland State Fair to the Austin, Texas “Spamarama,” there’s one basic issue: SPAM is working-class cuisine. And while foodies give lip service to “comfort food,” they have a hard time with something they perceive as culturally inferior, particularly if it comes out of a can.

SPAM has long been stigmatized as “poor people food.” And it is indeed far cheaper than anything you can buy at a deli. It is convenience and nutrition, all in one. Last Christmas Day, we went out searching for breakfast; nothing was open. No matter. We returned home and had sautéed SPAM on English muffins, topped with scrambled eggs and garden herbs.

A particular favorite recipe is one I take to pot-lucks: Simply score the broad side of a SPAM into diamonds, each with a clove in the middle. Top with the can gel, mixed with dry mustard. Bake at 375 for 30 minutes, basting every few minutes with Dr. Pepper. Serve at room temperature, with a sharp knife and Ritz crackers. Quite a sight. Sure, people laugh. But it’s always the first dish to go.

Here’s my personal haiku to it: 

Mahogany glazed
Altar of porky essence —
Please pass me a spork.

Joseph Byrd can be vilified directly at eat.your.spinach@gmail.com

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