table talk / By Joseph Byrd

How To Cook Supermarket Pork Chops

optional: 1/3 cup heavy cream

sprig of fresh thyme or other herb (beware the dominance of fresh rosemary)

Spray a sauté pan large enough to hold all four chops comfortably with Crisco and put on the stove, but do not pre-heat. Rinse the meat, then dry it thoroughly and put it on a large plate or platter. Cut eighth-inch vertical slits in the surrounding fat about every two inches (to keep the chops from buckling during cooking).

Butter the top of each slice, and sprinkle with sugar, then spices (I use dry dill, curry powder, granulated garlic and onion, coriander, and finally salt and pepper). Press seasonings into the meat so the butter creates a paste. Now turn each chop and do the same thing. Some butter/spice will stick to the plate. Not a problem.

Place the chops in the cold sauté pan, pressing the meat so the metal is touching as much surface as possible. It’s best to turn the bone sides toward the center. Now turn the burner on medium. (After about 2 minutes, you should hear a gentle sizzle; if not, slightly increase heat.) Cook uncovered until lightly browned, usually 4-6 minutes.

Turn the chops, cover the pan, and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook another 4 minutes, then test near the bone with the meat thermometer (it may take several more minutes to reach temperature, so check frequently). When it reads 140, remove the chops and place side-by-side in a warmed, shallow ovenware casserole, and cover. Do not discard pan juices.

Raise pan to medium-high heat, and add diced shallots and 1-2 tablespoons butter. After a minute, add the apple slices, toss to coat with juices, then add the sauterne, mustard, and herbs. Lower the heat to let the apple cook slightly. (If using cream, add it now, and stir everything around.) The sauce should reduce to a slightly syrupy consistency.

Pour the pan mixture over the chops and cover. Serve immediately or set aside, if desired, to be warmed in the microwave. Chef Dan garnished his chops with roasted half Brussels sprouts, a bittersweet flavor to counter the tangy-rich pork.

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