A History of American Cuisine, Part I

Note in the recipe the absence of “Clabber Girl” or other baking powder. The use of aluminum sulfate in baking powder introduces a “metallic” off-flavor, so soda and tartar are used instead to boost leavening. Still, this is not a puffy cake.

Basic Southern Skillet Cornbread
> (adapted from a recipe by John and Matt Thorne in Serious Pig)

Put a well-oiled* 8-inch cast-iron skillet in a 450-degree oven for 5 minutes.

1 cup white corn meal
1/2 t baking soda
1/4 t cream of tartar
1/2 t sea salt
1 large egg
1 cup buttermilk, or yogurt mixed with milk
(*1 T bacon grease, lard or peanut oil for the skillet)


>> Whisk the egg, adding liquid, then pour the dry ingredients through a strainer to remove lumps, and whisk again.
>> When the pan is ready, remove — hot! — pour batter in, then bake for 15-20 minutes. Bread should be set and golden brown when done.
>> Remove from oven, and invert over a cutting board (otherwise it will continue to cook and become dry). Allow to cool 1-2 minutes before slicing. Serve hot, with butter.

This was the simplest recipe I’ve ever encountered. I was skeptical.

But omigod. I’m now a devout believer. It was the best cornbread I’ve ever tasted, so good we ignored most of the meal, cutting off and buttering little wedges until we felt like Thanksgiving turkeys ready for the oven. (We were also testing Organic Valley “cultured butter,” which is the perfect accompaniment.) Simpler is not just better; it is heaven.

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