The Next Iron Chef

• Swordfish cream in brik (phyllo) pastry, fried and served with berries, cinnamon and black pepper

The last dish, one more than required, was improvised in the final minute of the trial, when Besh heard the Japanese judge, Chef Morimoto, ask if anyone was going to make a swordfish dessert — it was an extraordinary display of summary virtuosity, although hardly a distinguished dessert. Moreover, looking at the menus, Besh’s looks superior in imagination to Symon’s relatively safe choices.

That was not the decision of the three chefs, however. They went wild over Symon’s roasted pineapple combination, and found minor flaws in Besh’s dishes. Their decision reinforced Symon’s win. (And in fact, Symon had won three of the preliminary rounds, to Besh’s one.)

But nothing is ever quite so simple. There is now a controversy, fueled by two of the regular judges, who thought Besh should have won. Well, hooray! It is nothing but good news when we have a cultural dispute more interesting than who will start at quarterback for the Raiders.

Chef Michael Symon fights a “Thanksgiving Battle” this weekend on Iron Chef America. Could turkey be on the menu? Joseph Byrd will be watching. He thinks the judges made the right choice. Don’t agree? Set him straight ateat.your.spinach@gmail.com.

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