table talk / By Simona Carini

Risotto, oh oh!

The timer beeps shortly after adding the last ladleful of broth. I taste the risotto: it should be al dente, soft but not mushy, creamy but with some body. If it feels still a bit hard at the core, I cook it a minute longer. You can add some salt now, according to your taste. When I am satisfied with the texture of the risotto, I turn off the heat and add a quarter cup of freshly-grated Parmigiano, then stir well so the cheese melts in the hot risotto. I recently planted marjoram in my garden and like the flavor bestowed to the risotto by a tablespoon of its leaves sprinkled at the end.

The traditional finale calls for two tablespoons of cold butter to be added together with the Parmigiano, plus one minute of vigorous stirring. This is called mantecatura and serves the purpose of whipping the butter and of giving a creamy consistency to the risotto. Whatever the finishing step, I let the risotto rest for a few minutes before serving it. During this time, the rice absorbs some more broth and then it is ready to be savored.

As you can see, I use no magic wand besides my wooden spoon, and pronounce no magic formula. I simply follow a procedure that, once mastered, opens up a world of possibilities. Then, the next time you visit a farmers’ market or grocery store, you will find yourself looking at vegetables (asparagus, tomatoes, zucchini, etc.) from a risotto perspective.

Simona Carini is a native of Italy who splits her time between Trinidad and Berkeley. She writes about Italian foods also at her blog: briciole.typepad.com

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