Friday, November 18, 2016

Coming Out of Your Shell

Posted By on Fri, Nov 18, 2016 at 2:19 PM

Escargot and the power of butter. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Escargot and the power of butter.

The French have certainly, as they say, foutent dans la merde, or screwed up hard, over the years (colonization, Polanski, etc.). But when it comes to making the best of tough times, the home of La Résistance is a solid role model. And so French is a fine choice for dinner with a heartbroken friend. In particular, France knows when to throw butter at a problem.

Humboldt Bay Bistro (1436 Second St.), which has taken over the bay views and corner nooks of the former Casa Blanca, is turning out some Gallic standards to cut through a pre-winter chill. There are little cauldrons of French onion soup bubbled over with gruyere ($6) and escargot ($9) to help you comfort eat more like an attractively teary Catherine Deneuve than you would at home in your sweats. Unlike the draggingly relentless snails that ravage your garden, escargot is hard to find in Humboldt. Here the tender, dark curls of meat arrive with neither shells nor tongs (whether this is a relief or disappointment to you may be related to whether you're wearing a dry clean-only shirt), swimming in compound butter. Just as the horn section blaring "La Marseillaise" drowns out the singing Nazis in the film Casablanca, so, too, do the little baths of herbed butter, white wine, shallots and garlic push back the chill of a day gone dark too early. Dip the grilled baguette slices in the remaining broth and other clouds hanging over you may recede enough for you to gather your strength and remember that the lights finally came back on in Paris, after all.


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Friday, November 4, 2016

Reuben Rubric

Posted By on Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 4:15 PM

Hello, Reuben. Or Rachel. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Hello, Reuben. Or Rachel.
The famed Carnegie Deli in New York City has announced it will close its doors at the end of 2016, never again to stun tourists and enable regulars with its mountainous signature sandwiches, dizzying stratified cliff faces of corned beef and pastrami. Take a moment to pour out some pickle juice on the ground.

How to properly move through the stages of grief from so far away? Luckily Humboldt Smokehouse (310 Fifth St., Eureka) has added to its menu the pastrami the owners have been tinkering with since opening. It's smoked for 24 hours but add in the spicing and curing and you're looking at a 12-day process that yields a deep red, briney, peppery meat that breaks apart with the slightest pull.

The Reuben ($11.99) is technically a Rachel, the spicier pastrami-filled sibling of the traditional hot corned beef sandwich on rye with Russian dressing, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese. Instead of the infinite layering of thin slices, 1/4-inch thick slabs are fanned out on seedy, crusty rye bread with the kraut and cold-smoked Swiss cheese. And technically the relish in the side of dressing takes us into Thousand Island rather than Russian waters, but let's not kvetch when there's a nice hit of horseradish to balance the creamy tang. Worry about having enough napkins.
Like little fatty, salty, spicy, sweet rubies. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Like little fatty, salty, spicy, sweet rubies.
And if you can stand at the counter waiting for your sandwich without ordering a little paper boat of Sriracha and brown sugar bacon (3.99), you're stronger than we are. But less happy. Unlike the hardened brown sugar crusted bacon you want to love but can't because it's lost its warm, fatty charm, these jewel-like chunks of cured pork are equal parts tender and chewy with buttery fat and exactly the right heat to balance the sweetness. And if there's any left by the time your sandwich comes, well, that's a kind of victory, too.




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Friday, October 14, 2016

Taco Trucks on Every Corner

Posted By on Fri, Oct 14, 2016 at 4:24 PM

On every corner? Yes, please. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • On every corner? Yes, please.

Can we get back to that campaign promise/threat? It sounds fantastic. It beats a "chicken in every pot," which leaves you to come up with side dishes. No, life with tacos always in honking distance sounds far better. 

El Pueblo Market (3600 Broadway, Eureka) has recently extended its empire of pan dulce and chicharones, rolling a slick, chili pepper-mustachioed taco truck into its parking lot. Taco truck romantics — those who wax poetic over weather-worn beaters parked in seedy alleys — may be disoriented by the gleam of stainless steel, the minimalist-chic menu and the shining hubcaps. Take a steadying breath. Smell the meat.

For $2.95 each, the tacos are generous mounds of meat topped with requisite onion and cilantro on thick corn tortillas. The lengua comes in soft cubes, but is outshone by the salty char of juicy asada chunks and the buttery curls of tripe. All are splashed with smoky, red salsa and further improved with a tip of the accompanying cup of green salsa. Burritos are available, but the companion who ordered one on the day we visited made quick work of it before photos or samples could be taken. The tight metallic cylinder remains, to the rest of us, a mystery. That, really, is the strongest of recommendations.


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Friday, September 30, 2016

When Bacon is Your Jam

Posted By on Fri, Sep 30, 2016 at 12:46 PM

That, that is a lot of bacon. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • That, that is a lot of bacon.
There is nothing like the crushing disappointment of sharing intel on a favorite hole-in-the-wall — the labyrinthian directions! the semi-sketchy location! the limited hours! — only to find your confidante has already eaten there.

Sniff out whether or not members of your carnivorous inner circle have hit up BullDoggies hot dogs yet (1125 Summer St., Eureka). For obscurity, you can't beat it. It's not even a food truck yet — it's a tent-covered cart parked in front of a commercial kitchen behind the Clark Street Post Office.

Huddled in a tent with layers guarding against the chilly air and a platoon of condiments and relishes, the proprietors serve half a dozen variations of the beef dog on standard white bun. A standout among these is the Bourbon-maple bacon jam dog ($5.50) heaped with caramelized onions. This is not a dog with a snappy casing, if that's important to you, but it meets all smoky-sweet-bacon needs with the "jam," which is not so much of a preserve as a warm, loose topping.

As you chew, your mind may start racing with other applications for the bacon jam, which apparently started out as something to spoon over a pork loin. Prepare to experiment, as little jars are sometimes available for $5.

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Friday, September 23, 2016

San Diego Homesick Blues

Posted By on Fri, Sep 23, 2016 at 10:45 AM

Stop looking at the menu and order the carne asada burrito. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Stop looking at the menu and order the carne asada burrito.

Now and then, you may see a faraway look in the eyes of those of us without Frumboldt stickers on our cars, who hail from elsewhere but were lured here by Humboldt's verdant charms (or perhaps the charms of a Humboldter). We long for the food of our homelands. You may wave a hand in our faces but we are far away, spirited back by memory to remembered barbecue shacks, deli counters, dim sum joints and pubs, ordering our usual.

Your San Diegan friend is likely dreaming of Roberto's, the 50-year-old gold standard for the city's signature carne asada burrito. And in a real desire to help, you may have taken him or her to your favorite spot only to see a perfectly fine burrito met with a sad smile and that distant look again.

Don't give up. That funny log cabin-looking building near the courthouse has been hastily painted over yellow and converted into Raliberto's Taco Shop (1039 Fourth St., Eureka), an outpost of the franchise rumored to have been started by a relative of the Roberto's dynasty. Right by the courthouse. Takeout is not a bad idea. 

The sandwich version with lettuce for health nuts. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • The sandwich version with lettuce for health nuts.
The Journal's token San Diegan was pleased. The carne asada burrito ($5.95) is a slightly too chewy flour tortilla stuffed with fistfuls of marinated chopped beef, pico de gallo and guacamole. That's it. No rice, no beans, no cheese. Between bites its SoCal minimalism drew sounds of happy surprise from northerners, too, as did its torta cousin ($5.95) on a soft bun with the addition of a little shredded lettuce. Much of the credit goes to the green and red salsas, little shot cups with no lumps and plenty of heat.

You stay classy, San Diego.

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Friday, September 9, 2016

Bone Deep

Posted By on Fri, Sep 9, 2016 at 2:02 PM

Good bones: marrow and caviar at Five Eleven. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Good bones: marrow and caviar at Five Eleven.
Early evening at Five Eleven, with its azure concrete floor and shining glass tile bar, is a bit like relaxing in rather than beside a very chic swimming pool. On a recent night, adjacent tables were stocked with flat-billed hats, toddlers picking at fancy pizza and older patrons discussed the fine line between appetizers and small plates — all of us likely wishing we were as flatteringly lit as the bottles behind the bar. 

By 6 p.m., there were only three orders of the special appetizer left: roasted beef marrow bones served with micro greens and black tobiko caviar ($16). And with good reason. Halves of the split bone, like a pair of dug-out canoes, are filled with melting marrow salted only by the briny caviar. Coax a mouthful out of its hollow with a spoon and onto your char-striped bread, and the roasted marrow's deep meat flavor emerges. Suddenly the theory about early humans surviving off scavenged marrow sounds like the kind of Paleo diet you can get behind (assuming the availability of bruschetta). 

Confit comfort. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Confit comfort.
Low down on the regular menu, the duck confit mac and cheese ($19) speaks to the sometimes conflicting urges toward comfort and swank. The sauce, an already luxurious melding of mozzarella and parmesan, is further enriched with duck fat, cream, herbs and truffles, as well as buried shreds of duck. The whole thing is crowned with a crisp sprinkling of fried shallots and duck skin cracklings. It is rich enough that you may have to share — if not out of generosity, then self preservation. 




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Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Key Player

Posted By on Wed, Jul 6, 2016 at 2:42 PM

Key lime pie fit for Papa Hemingway. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Key lime pie fit for Papa Hemingway.

Some of us leap flip-flop first into summer at the first hiss of lawn sprinklers. For the rest of us, zipping up our hoodies in vampiric fear of the sun and denial over the year whizzing by, a little incentive is required. A slice of Key lime pie will help.

There is patio seating at Café Nooner (409 Opera Alley, Eureka) for those who are ready for it — otherwise, take the baby step of snagging a window table. The Key lime pie looks like a tall, slick wedge of cheesecake ($4). At the bottom is a pinky-thick graham cracker crust, sandy and salty-caramelized against the sweet and tart, dense filling. It speaks to the kind of beachy pleasures that don't require exercise, more Hemingway-esqe boating around the Florida Keys with a cigar than oceanside yoga in Malibu.

Come out of hibernation, friends. There's pie out here.
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Friday, July 1, 2016

Good Decisions

Posted By on Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 2:12 PM

JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill

Tucked back from the street, its fence camouflaged with peeling fliers, La Chiquita (1021 I St., Arcata), brick-and-mortar counterpart to the taco truck of the same name, is easily missed on the walk past Los Bagels and Wildwood Music. Luckily, there is the smell of steamy tortillas and carnitas to turn your head.

A news editor who prefers to remain anonymous claims that the beans, rice and homemade flour tortillas are so good that he can be content with a simple bean burrito. But if you want to go past contentment, he suggests the pastor burrito ($6.90).

"Burrito? Yeah. Good choice," says a deeply relaxed customer as we pick up our foil-wrapped bundles at the counter. "You gotta get the hot sauce."

Out in the sunshine at a battered picnic table, taking the first bite into the pliant layers of warm, translucent flour tortilla at the top, we were feeling a little relaxed, too. Inside, the rice and beans are as promised — the coral-colored rice being fluffy and flavorful, and the beans being a well-seasoned mix of black and pinto, half mashed and half whole. And the hunks of pork inside have the juicy richness of fatty, fall-apart carnitas with a red-orange sheen of the chili sauce that gives it a little tang and heat. Bite. Groan. Repeat. 

"How was it?" calls our fellow diner, who's pleased to get a thumbs up. As we head out, another patron making the turn onto the patio and up La Chiquita's steps catches his eye. "Yeah," he cheers from his table. "Another good decision." 
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Saturday, June 25, 2016

The Bomber

Posted By on Sat, Jun 25, 2016 at 10:00 AM

The Bomber Burger, sandwiched between sandwiches. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • The Bomber Burger, sandwiched between sandwiches.
The Crabs get most of the local press, but the summer sun shines on Bomber Field, too. The Humboldt B-52s haven't got a live band yet but the snack shack platoon is performing this season (Redwood Acres, Eureka). Pay for your entry stamp at the folding table and hook right once inside and find yourself immersed in the sounds of the season: the crack of the bat, applause from the crowd and the surf-like shhhh of the deep fryer.

On a recent evening the concessions counter was staffed by a pair of towering players, who shrugged and grinned as they relayed orders to the pros in the back, a couple of women pivoting in the narrow galley between tubs of shredded lettuce and patties on the hissing grill. As a customer went into a mild panic upon receiving her satellite dish of a quesadilla, we ordered the Bomber Burger with grilled onions ($8). 

Your debate over whether the hamburger is a sandwich is rendered irrelevant by this cheese-topped beef patty with lettuce, tomatoes and onions (grilled or raw), all of which is held together by a pair of grilled cheese sandwiches instead of a bun. It's a gimmick that works. The flattened sandwiches are both sturdier and tastier than a standard white bun — also weirdly not as painfully filling as one would imagine eating a cheeseburger and two grilled cheese sandwiches to be. And as you listen to the chosen walk-up music of the next batter, Will Smith's "Wild Wild West," it's a reminder that anything goes in the summer. Well, almost.





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Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Hop a Flight

Posted By on Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 2:04 PM

Back row: Strawberry, chocolate orange, Mexican coffee, pineapple orange. Front row: Coco rose, salted pistachio, green tea, chocolate banana. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Back row: Strawberry, chocolate orange, Mexican coffee, pineapple orange. Front row: Coco rose, salted pistachio, green tea, chocolate banana.
Unfortunate fact of physics: A standard ice cream cone can only hold two flavors before things get sloppy and end in tears. If you’re not already married to a flavor, the wait at Living the Dream Ice Cream (1 F St., Eureka) culminates with a scramble to pick from more than a dozen rotating flavors. And even if you get two scoops, does mango habanero go with Dirty Monkey? Sure, you can get a sample but there are limits, both of decorum and the patience of the toddler behind you who wants a scoop of vanilla cake batter now.

Enter the ice cream flight: eight 1-ounce scoops nestled in a custom wooden tray that someone should get going on marketing ($8.25). And unlike oenophiles and beer aficionados, you needn’t follow any particular order. Order a couple of flavors outside your comfort zone and expand your palate. Nibble the salted pistachio and chase it with chocolate orange. A bite of chocolate banana ice cream paired with the light and milky strawberry is an instant banana split. Spend a little time on the complex green tea (fresh, earthy-smoky), then go back to chocolate orange by way of the aromatic Mexican chocolate. Cleanse your palate with the floral and dairy-free Coco Rose. And digging into two rows of scoops does not make you a glutton; you’re a connoisseur. 
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