Friday, January 24, 2014

Brunch for Lunch

Posted on Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 9:54 PM

Green is good. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Green is good.

T's Café has taken over the old Crosswinds location in Arcata (860 10th St.), whispering the three words we all love to hear: breakfast all day. And breakfast, as tipsters promised, is indeed the thing to do. Manhole-cover pancakes (banana pecan, apple cinnamon) went by as we waited for the Green Omelet ($9.50) and biscuit and gravy ($1.75 extra).
Fluffy as Bob Ross' happy clouds. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Fluffy as Bob Ross' happy clouds.

A staffing crisis slowed things down, but all was forgiven when the pesto-slathered omelet showed up stuffed with grilled veggies and melted cheese. The red skinned potato home fries were crusty and firm. You aren't going to make this for yourself. You just aren't. What was that word you learned for fluffy clouds in science class? Cumulonimbus! Such were the scratch-made biscuits that came with a dish of mild, soupy gravy that, while creamy, didn't make returning to bed seem like the only option.
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Monday, January 13, 2014

Puffery

Posted By on Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 6:05 PM

It's just cold enough to justify puff pie for lunch. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • It's just cold enough to justify puff pie for lunch.

Let's talk about your last chicken pot pie. Was it frozen? Be honest. It's not your fault — those Stouffer's commercials make their sandy-crusted flying saucers seem like a homecoming, with the family around the table, the rising steam … They never show the lonely person peering into the oven window or the tragic tongue-burn that makes a rubbery cube of what was once poultry even more bland.

While not strictly a potpie, the Chicken Puff Pie at Arcata's Cafe Brio would never do that to you ($11.85). The meat is tender, roasty chicken in a creamy sauce — that is, made with cream that you can taste and revel in, not gelatinous fake gravy — a little white wine, carrots, meaty mushrooms and potatoes. The stewy goodness runneth over from a buttery puff pastry "crown" with a hole punched out of the top layer. Hence the little pillbox hat on top. Because once you're having something rich, why not have it on what amounts to a croissant? Those fuschia rings on the salad are pickled onion, not beets — a nice tart something to balance things out. And see? All those lonely feelings are gone.
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