January 11, 2007

A Bowl of Beans for Martin

One of my favorite bowls is a handmade ceramic piece, almost a half-sphere, glazed and earthy brown with splotches of black inside and an unglazed foot. It's light and delicate, with an oriental feel, obviously the work of a master potter. I've had it a couple of years now, use it when I eat cereal (not very often of late) and especially when I have a bowl of beans, this because I bought it a couple of years ago at the annual Bowl of Beans Benefit at the Arcata Community Center (well, actually I think I had my mother buy it, along with one for herself, since I took her to the event).

The meal is held every year around the birthday of Martin Luther King Jr. as a celebration his life and work, but also to raise funds to support the Arts in the Afternoon program there at the center, a worthy endeavor run by Maureen McGarry that provides something for kids to do after school while instilling an appreciation for the arts.

The menu is pretty basic: a green salad with cornbread, beans and rice for the main course. As you've probably heard rice and beans are a good combination since together they form a complete protein. Since I'm not a nutritionist I'm not going to try to explain how that works -- suffice to say it has to do with amino acids that are essential to any diet, and it's not by accident that you get the two items on the side with your No. 8 combination plate at your typical Mexican restaurant. For variety they usually offer different kinds of rice -- Spanish, white and brown, for example -- and different kinds of beans, including red and black.

Most common beans are from the genus/species Phaselous vulgaris, which includes pinto, kidney and navy beans as well as black beans. I associate the black ones with Latin America, but as it turns out all of the vulgaris -- aka "common" beans -- came from there. Black beans in particular are dietary staples in Brazil, Cuba, Guatemala, Mexico and the Dominican Republic.

Originally cultivated in Peru centuries ago, beans spread though Central and South America before the conquistadors took them back to Europe in the 15th century (along with Inca gold and other loot). At that point they spread worldwide, and for good reason -- dried beans are cheap, storeable and portable. And they're good for you.

I love New Orleans-style red beans and rice, steamy hot and spicy studded with bits of bacon and sausage, splashed with Tabasco, but I like black beans even more. Years ago I learned to cook something that was described to me as Cuban Black Beans -- even though I don't remember who showed me the recipe, I'm pretty sure it wasn't a Cuban, so I can't vouch for authenticity. I typically cooked mass quantities, so the measurements are reduced and approximated and provided as a not-too-strict guideline.

Cuban Black Beans aka Frijoles Negros.

1 lb. dried black beans
1/3 c. olive oil (or a few pieces of bacon)
1 large onion
8 cloves garlic
1 large red bell pepper
1/2 tsp. cumin
2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
splash white wine
1 cup or more orange juice
3 or 4 satsuma mandarins or 2 oranges (or equivalent)

Start the day before by soaking the beans. Cover in water and add a couple of inches extra -- the beans will soak it up and double in volume. (Note: Advance soaking supposedly reduces the "musical fruit" factor.)

Next day, discard floaters, drain the beans and rinse. Cover with water in large pot and bring to a rolling boil. Reduce to medium heat and cook for around 45 minutes.

While the beans are cooking, dice the onion and sauté it along with the chopped garlic in the olive oil. (Or if you prefer, start with roughly diced bacon, and cook the onions and garlic in the fat.)

I like to roast the pepper on an open flame, which is not too difficult if you have a gas stove. Stick a fork in the stem of the pepper for a handle and place the pepper right on the burner with the flames licking around it. Turn often until the skin blackens. (If you're quick, you don't need to fork.) For full flavor, put the blackened pepper in a paper bag to cool, then peel carefully. Remove seeds and stem and cut in rough dice, reserving a few nice-looking strips for garnish. If you're impatient or in a hurry you can simply rinse the blackness off under cold water. You can also skip this step by getting a jar of roasted bells or by simply dicing the pepper and sautéing it with the garlic and onions.

If you want more kick, add your favorite chili pepper.

Add the vegetable mixture to the bean pot with salt and spices, cover the pot and continue cooking for another hour or so. Make sure to check occasionally to see that there's still liquid in the pot. You don't want to burn them. Speaking of adding liquid, somewhere along the way add a big splash of white wine (optional, and you could also opt to sip as you cook) and orange juice.

The beans should end up soft, but not mushy. I usually mash them a bit not long before they're done, but not so much that all the beans lose their integrity.

The final twist (I forget who I learned it from) is the oranges or satsumas (which, unfortunately, are not exactly in season at this time) or tangerines (watch for seeds). Peel them and cut into bite-sized pieces and add just before the end. The person who first showed me this recipe used canned mandarins ("juice" and all) and that works, but I prefer fresh.

Serve in a bowl with white rice on one side and black beans on the other. If you spoon the rice in carefully you can create a yin/yang effect. Garnish with roasted pepper strips and cilantro, maybe even some scallions. Enjoy.

Arts in the Afternoon presents the 7th Annual "Bowl of Beans" Benefit on Monday, Jan.15, from 5-8 p.m. at the Arcata Community Center. The meal of beans and rice, cornbread and salad is $6. Teens from the Arts in the Afternoon program and local potters are crafting bowls that you can take home with you for an additional price. Expect some sort of art display and speeches in honor of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. (it's actually on his birthday) along with music by the Arcata Interfaith Gospel Choir and local youth. My mom tells me the Raging Grannies are planning an appearance, but that's not official.

One more thing, as you eat your bowl of rice and beans, think of Martin, a man who had a dream. Maybe you can even do like Maureen and come up with a dream of your own to make the world a better place.

your Talk of the Table comments, recipes and ideas to Bob Doran.

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